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Author
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Topic: painting order
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 08-09-2002 09:42 AM
 
I'm sure we've been over this a hundred times, but for those of you who completely disassembled your car, like this guy did in the link below, what order did you to assembly/paint in, and would you do it that way again?http://www.mendhams.com/cars/Disassemble.htm I'd really like to do my car over again in pretty much the same order this guy did, ie, media blast entire car, prime, shoot interior/truck/jams, assemble the suspension/drivetrain, and then paint the exterior. However, I'm very concerned about spending all that time detailing the engine compartment and suspension only to get overspray on it from painting the exterior. At the same time, I don't want to go having the entire car with a nice paint job on it and ruin the paint job with scratches or dents by bumbling around on the reassembly. Any takes on it?
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 08-09-2002 11:32 AM
What a nice job!! Agree with you about doing the engine compt. after paint and painting with engine out of car. Also, I wonder how he covered up the bottom. It can be done, and final touchup after. Certainly the media blast top and bottom is a good idea, and interior IF it needs it. Of course, more is often revealed when the car is COMPLETELY stripped. I said car, not girl friends LOL! One thing I noticed...when the car was in primer awaiting paint..saw no evidence of paint applied to the BACK of headlight bodies. Would want those painted OFF of car. I guess the jury's out on what procedure to follow. For some, it's overkill, others may paint the car disassembled. The springs, suspension, rear end, etc can be protected with alum foil wrapped and crunched around them. It depends on what YOU are willing to do yourself. Getting to know you, would say that you'd do quite a bit yourself. I'd like to see more of those sites. It was good.
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-09-2002 11:47 AM
Actually the car was restored by Glazier's Mustang Barn and IMHO they have an excellent reputation. They have done enough cars to have it down to a science. They also are professionals so the project doesn't linger for years.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 08-12-2002 03:37 PM
Sorry I haven't been around all weekend, I took a jet on the road and got stuck in Key West. I'm still sitting here waiting for some maintenance guys to rescue me. Oh well, guess another afternoon on the beach and then Sloppy Joe's for some drinks tonight.  Anyhow, you're correct about Glazier's, I got the link from their site. I guess even though the pictures turned out nice, I'd like to see that car up close to have an idea how all the "details" turned out with overspray and hitting everything commonly missed. Pete, right on about me doing alot!!
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 08-06-2005 12:14 PM
OK, I'm going to dig this one out of the weeds. My car is about 50% disassembled right now, and should be completely done in the next few weeks. Soon its going to be time for blasting and painting.I re-read through the like above with the restoration, and something concerns me. The car was blasted, primed, and then the engine bay was painted black and they shot color on the jambs, window openings, etc. Then the assembled the drivetrain, put on most of the sheetmetal and shot a base-clear. Here's my question, he doesn't specify, but I'm wondering if the paint they shot on the jambs and door openings would have been enamel or some other one coat system, or if they would have done base/clear on the jambs too? The reason I'm asking is, if it is enamel, what is the compatibility between base/clear that gets shot on top of the enamel at the overlap edges (ie, where the jamb meets the quarter, etc), or if it was base/clear, same question about color coat being shot on top of the clear coat in the same areas, and then clear going on again on top of it all.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 08-06-2005 12:16 PM
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
OK, I'm going to dig this one out of the weeds. My car is about 50% disassembled right now, and should be completely done in the next few weeks. Soon its going to be time for blasting and painting.I re-read through the link above with the restoration, and something concerns me. The car was blasted, primed, and then the engine bay was painted black and they shot color on the jambs, window openings, etc. Then the assembled the drivetrain, put on most of the sheetmetal and shot a base-clear. Here's my question, he doesn't specify, but I'm wondering if the paint they shot on the jambs and door openings would have been enamel or some other one coat system, or if they would have done base/clear on the jambs too? The reason I'm asking is, if it is enamel, what is the compatibility between base/clear that gets shot on top of the enamel at the overlap edges (ie, where the jamb meets the quarter, etc), or if it was base/clear, same question about color coat being shot on top of the clear coat in the same areas, and then clear going on again on top of it all.
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-06-2005 01:55 PM
My painter used thee same paint on the jams as used for the rest of the car. He before the exterior paint he taped about halfway back into the jamb. This resulted in a paint build up that I had the pleasure of sanding. I know this topic has been covered a lot on www.autobodystore.com , IIRC they use a foam backed tape for keeping overspray out oof the jambs.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 08-06-2005 01:57 PM
Not too long back, the 66 cv from hell got painted. There was no engine or trans in car prior-still isn't! Painted the bottom satin black and covered much of the drive train with foil. The doors were edged with PPG single stage in color of choice as well as hinge pillars. Doors were completely edged off car and installed. Fenders were then edged and installed, Decklikd was shot on the backside and installed-same with hood.A Primo job would mean painting parts off the car, I guess, but prefer my way. Besides, I had it painted it at a collision shop where extreme detail doesn't get done. The headlite buckets, and doors were painted off the car as was the front valance and stone guard. I edged the rear valance area and painted the back, installing it for paint on the car. Reason?? to minimize overspray blowing in on rear. Rear springs and rear end were covered with foil, but stil........ When I got the car back, removed decklid and shot the inside of luggage cmpt in body color- single stage. Shops always seem to be lax in this area. Sanding it, vacuming it out, etc. gave a nice factory finish. Recently saw a 67 fastback, nice car, disgustingly painted in the trunk with splatter s**t! Guess they started it later but on 65-70 at least, no splatter. Hate that stuff. The biggest comsmetic error on Mustangs, I swear, is poor prep and finish on back of headlite bodies. Looking in at core support, it is painfully visible if not done right. They should be as smooth as exterior-in same color. Covering up the car, rear end, etc., it is possible to shoot the bottom of car last, and it looks terrific if done with lines, etc. off the car. Another area often overlooked, still see it glaring out of magazine pics, is NOT painting the flange along bottom of rocker panels and the flange behind wheel wells satin black. The factory did it,on lighter colors inc red, and it's like spinach on your tooth at a job interview!! if left in body color! opinion. Re the jambs, I called a PPG dealer in Green Bay who know his **** and he said it would be OK with BC/CC, but staying with all PPG brands. They covered them anyway up front The painter scuffed the back of each door and the striker panel and shot them. Always leave the stikers off. Now paint on them and the painter can easily open the doors.
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