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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  Applying GT Decal on 65-67 ?

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Author Topic:   Applying GT Decal on 65-67 ?
Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Near Paris, France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 12-30-2003 01:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre        Reply w/Quote
Trying to prioritize body parts to be redone & painted, that decal applying process is interfering with the project so I was curious as how this decal should be applied:
all at once (door & fender)?
How long after paint ?
How does it stick ?

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-30-2003 02:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
They go on in sections; fender, door, and quarterpanel. The kit is one piece (per side) and must be trimmed to fit each section, as well as the cut-out for the M-U-S-T-A-N-G lettering. They're adhesive backed; you spray a soapy water solution onto the surface (allows you to make minor adjustments), squeege out the liquid, and they're stuck. I did mine about 90 days after paint.

I also used light adhesive painter's tape to 'mark' a control line all the way down the car. It gives you a straight line for reference


------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 12-30-2003).]

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 12-30-2003 02:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
One more thing... the surface must be sterile clean. I used a real light solvent called 'Sem-Sol' to strip any residual polishing compound off prior to decal application.

You can of course see the results in the link below

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 12-30-2003).]

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Near Paris, France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 12-31-2003 02:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
One more thing... the surface must be sterile clean. I used a real light solvent called 'Sem-Sol' to strip any residual polishing compound off prior to decal application.

You can of course see the results in the link below

Ohh....been around this forum long enough to know that I don't even need to check out the finished product


DutchD58
Gearhead

Posts: 142
From: West Milton, OH
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 12-31-2003 03:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DutchD58        Reply w/Quote
Pierre, be absolutely certain that your paint is cured. If it was baked on then this shouldn't be much of an issue. Two-part urethanes may not be as much trouble , either, as they cure chemically. Otherwise, if you have any doubts, find out what the paint manufacturer suggests and follow it.
Paint that is still "green" can lead to bubbling of the vinyl, in some cases, as the un-cured paint outgases and sheds its' solvents.

Kevin

------------------
'73 Gran Torino Sportsroof

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 12-31-2003 09:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
FYI There is a difference between 65/6 stripes and the 67's.

Pierre
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Near Paris, France
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 01-02-2004 10:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Pierre        Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys, I am now clear on this part of the project

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