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Author
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Topic: door lock problem
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 06-08-2005 03:37 PM
 
I thought I had this fixed but it's back. When I got my car the passenger door was locked and would not unlock. Not with the key or by pulling the handle or knob. It's REALLY hard to get a door panel off witht the door closed! After shredding the door panel (I was replacing it anyway) I got my hand in and managed to get the door unlocked (no idea what I did). The door works fine unlocked. I took a look at it and noticed that the rod from the key lock was not attached to the latch. I fixed that, lubed it all really well and tried it off and on for a few weeks without incident. Naturally I have now put on the new door panel and after about 2 weeks it has stopped working again. The key will turn only part way. The knob will come up about 1/2 way. Any ideas greatly appreciated - especially if they do NOT involved removing the door panel! Cheers Gregg ------------------
68 coupe, red on black. 289
flowtech ceramic headers, hedman X pipe, flowmaster 2 chambers
edelbrock 4V and intake
Cragar SS with BFG t/a
Wilwood disks, Hurst pistol grip shifter
and a working 8 track for cruising days! http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/kinger44.html
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 06-08-2005 05:00 PM
I've run into this lots of times on 67 and 68 cars. Two things I've found usually causing the problem.
1) there should be a small (1") spring on one arm of the door latch mechanism that will pull a lockout lever into position. If the spring is missing the lever can flop around and become jammed in the wrong position. Replacing the spring should solve it if that's the case. Spring is available from some but not all Mustang vendors. NPD has it on page 148 of their catalog, part# 21813-2k, $5.952) sometimes the latch is so full of old caked up grease and junk that it doesn't always fully release or engage the above mentioned lockout lever. A very thorough cleaning and degreasing is called for, followed by fresh lube such as white lithium grease. In both cases the latch mechanism needs to come out of the door...sorry!
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 06-25-2005 04:39 PM
OK, so I finally got around to getting the latch out. When I got the door panel off I slid my hand in and messed around until the door unlocked. I then undid the screws and the rod retainers and got the latch out. It was very well greased, not too dirty. I took it to a buddy's and used his solvent tank and cleaned it all up. I CANNOT get it to do anything other than work fine. The problem is that when it wasn't working, the knob came 1/2 way up then stopped HARD - it felt like it was banging against something, so I have trouble believing that it was simply a grease/dirt issue. I have looked at the NPD catalog and all the other ones I have and can't find a picture of the inside of the latch to know what it's supposed to look like. I also can't see this lockout pin that Scott is referring to. There are 3 springs on mine - a big yellow one that runs across the top of the latch to provide the spring when using the inner handle or the outer button to open the door. There is also a smaller one - 2.5 inches long at rest - which is attached to the latch mechanism itself that snaps the latch open. The third is a small one that is part of the locking mechanism that snaps the latch either locked or unlocked. Since I have had it out it hasn't failed once - pre or post cleaning. I am tempted to just grease it up and put it back in but would like to actually find something wrong with it and not have to do this again next week. If anyone has any ideas I would be very grateful! Thanks as usual folks!!!! Gregg [This message has been edited by kinger44 (edited 06-25-2005).]
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 06-25-2005 10:13 PM
Got a picture of a latch for you, unfortunately the only spare I had was for the driver's side. Pic is against the door it would go in, so everything is reversed for the passenger side. Rod connections are labeled as is the spring that Scott mentioned that is available reproduction. If yours hasn't been replaced I would replace it while it is apart, I have had both sides go out on a 67 and my 68 and they are a pain to replace with the latch still in the door (you are basically working blind, by feel, and stretching a spring into position...much fun).
This is the original latch out of my 68, which means I replaced it for some reason, but I can't remember why. It is most likely missing something or something is broke, but after having the car 12 years and putting 100,000 miles on it (daily driver = lots of use and parts replaced), I just can't remember.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 06-25-2005 10:24 PM
Edit, I can't figure out the 3rd spring thing. The spring I have pointed to in the picture holds the latch closed when you shut the door. When that spring breaks, you push the door shut, but the latch doesn't engaged and the door swings back open again. Its longer than an inch, so not sure if its the spring Scott was referring to or not, but I'm pretty sure its the one in the catalog as I have bought and replaced them several times (never the same latch though). I just checked this thing functionally and it works fine, so not sure why I replaced it or why it only has 2 springs if there is supposed to be 3.
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 06-25-2005 11:20 PM
Hey thanks VERY much Sig, that picture is very helpful!This place is the best. Cheers, Gregg
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 06-26-2005 03:52 PM
Just a quick followup to finish this thread.I decided just to grease the latch up and put it back in since I need the car Wednesday and wouldn't have time to get the spring by then. I got the 4 rods on again and was tightening the three screws in the door when the problem started again. After a few choice words I felt around inside to try to unlock the door and couldn't do it this time. I loosened up the 3 screws and POOF! The lock started working again. Seems that tighening it up was causing it to bind. After some trial and error I can fully tighten the bottom 2 screws, but have to leave the top one loose. Thanks again to all who posted. Gregg
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SugarlandStang
Journeyman Posts: 98
From: Sugar Land, TX
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 06-18-2006 02:03 PM
I am having the same problem with my 67 mustang driver side door latch binding up. I can't get my door unlocked. I've got the door panel off and I can feel around in there but it just seems jammed. The door lock opens 1/2 way and stops solid. I sprayed some WD40 all over it, nothing. Does anyone have a good photo of the door latch assembly? Any ideas how to get this door open? Where is it binding?
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SugarlandStang
Journeyman Posts: 98
From: Sugar Land, TX
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 06-18-2006 02:38 PM
I did manage to get the door open, but the lock is still jammed.
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SugarlandStang
Journeyman Posts: 98
From: Sugar Land, TX
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 06-18-2006 03:28 PM
OK, I got it figured out... It was the connecting rod to the door handle. It was too short, and caused the door lock to jamb. I adjusted the length of the rod, and presto! Thanks guys, I guess I just needed someone to listen. And women say men don't know how to just listen... :-)
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