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Author
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Topic: First time brake bleeding
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masterrh
Journeyman Posts: 70
From:
Registered: Jul 2004
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posted 07-30-2005 03:49 PM
 
Ok, before the trip last thing I need to do is replace all my wheel cylinders. I know I'll have to breed the blakes after doing this as well, but I've never bled them before so I had a question..The first cylinder I'll replace is the Right Rear... and I know that is the first one to bleed so after removing the old cylinder, do I bleed it before adding the new one? If so, does it matter that I still have the three others to replace? Or do I need to replace all four of the cylinders, THEN bleed the brakes? Thanks! ------------------
Masters 1966 289 4spd 'R3D 5'
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/639289/6 W/optional accessories. :)
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gmliebau
Gearhead Posts: 691
From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 07-30-2005 03:58 PM
I would wait and bleed them all after installing the cylinders. If you bleed the first one and then replace the next one, you're just introducing air to the system again. I think. Regardless, wait until you've got them all replaced.
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 07-30-2005 06:14 PM
Yep, replace all four before bleeding anything.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 912
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-30-2005 09:14 PM
masterrh, It seems to me that you don't have much, if any experience with braking systems. I would suggest that you go and buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car and read up on how to do this work, or find someone that is experienced with brakes to help you. Replacing the wheel cylinders requires that you take the brakes apart, so you will need a pair of brake spring pliers. The brake lines are usually hard to break loose and the fittings are easily damaged, using flare nut wrenches helps prevent this damage. The brake system is nothing to play around with, so make sure everything is correct before you take off for a test drive. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 447
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 07-30-2005 10:40 PM
Brake Spring Pliers!!! Well i'll be....now I need another new fangled tool  (Bob throws his needle nose and favorite screw driver back into the corner where they belong)
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 07-30-2005 10:57 PM
I've found that needle-nose vice grips work awfully good to on those springs. 'Bout the only thing they work good on tho.------------------
William
68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget.
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 12:51 AM
Before installing new cylinders, I would take the opportunity to flush out the lines of old fluid and other things that might be in there so as not to contaminate the new cylinders. ------------------
reliving youth
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 12:58 AM
Very good idea!
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masterrh
Journeyman Posts: 70
From:
Registered: Jul 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 01:06 AM
quote:
Originally posted by exlocal:
Before installing new cylinders, I would take the opportunity to flush out the lines of old fluid and other things that might be in there so as not to contaminate the new cylinders.
So completely empty all the 'used' brake fluid?
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 02:20 AM
quote:
Originally posted by masterrh:
So completely empty all the 'used' brake fluid?
No, then itll be a pain to get all the air out of the system without bench bleeding the master cylinder. Other people might have a different opinion but i would suggest bleeding them until you see clean fluid appear (keep checking the master cylinder so it doesnt run dry)... David F.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 02:37 AM
Yep, but I'm not sure how to bleed the M/C, or if you even have to. I've seen some stuff on bench bleeding it, but I'm lost on the rest of it. I need to do the same thing here very soon, so I am curious to see the answer also. Sorry, I started typing this earlier, but got interrupted, so I guess you don't after all. I want to learn this, because I have at least 1 cylinder bad, so I'll be doing this SOON.------------------
William
68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget. [This message has been edited by 68 Coop (edited 07-31-2005).]
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 07-31-2005 10:03 AM
I've got these, and they work great. There is no better way to bleed the brakes or flush the fluid with one person! They only cost around $8 each.... and with these old cars, it's good to flush the brake fluid every couple years to keep the cylinders from rusting up and sticking.  http://www.speedbleeder.com
------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 07-31-2005).]
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 07-31-2005 12:32 PM
Compare the clearness of new brake fluid with what is now in the master cylinder. More than likely, the old fluid is very murky. If you don't change out the old fluid in the master cylinder, it will fill up the lines as you bleed the system, unless you're able to fill the lines backwards from the bleeder screws, even then, the old fluid will still blend slowly with the new fluid.------------------
reliving youth
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 1662
From: Sierra Vista ,Az USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 08-01-2005 12:15 AM
I would add that I would bleed them before the wheel cylinders and then when all the old fluid is expelled from the system then I would bleed them after the wheel cylinders.
Bruce
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83j20
Gearhead Posts: 304
From:
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-07-2005 12:41 PM
Yes the fluid in the master cylinder is old and probably discolored. But, when you bleed the brakes after the wheel cylinders are in, guess where that old fluid goes? That's right, through the lines and into your bucket. You will be flushing the MC as you bleed the brakes. No need to worry about bleeding it seperately.Just bleed the lines until clear fluid comes out, then the master cylinder is filled with fresh clean fluid. Just be sure during the bleeding process that you keep the MC topped off. If you run it dry, you'll be starting all over again with the bleeding.
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