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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  Need some help getting my amp gauge working.

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Author Topic:   Need some help getting my amp gauge working.
Red68fastback
Journeyman

Posts: 41
From: Kentucky
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 08-16-2005 06:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red68fastback        Reply w/Quote
Hello, I have a 68 mustang that I just put a powermaster one wire alternator on it. My amp gauge wasn't working before I changed to this one wire alt. but I know that the gauge is good. What I need to know from someone that has put a one wire alternator on their car is how did they wire the amp gauge up to make it work?? Any help would greatly be appreciated, thanks.

exlocal
Gearhead

Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 08-16-2005 09:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for exlocal        Reply w/Quote
An amp gauge has the charge wire from the alternator going "through" the gauge before getting to the battery. If it shows a negative charge, reverse the leads on the gauge. You must use a large (smaller numerically) gauge wire to handle the load so as not to overheat and possibly cause a fire. I find using a voltage gauge works best for my needs. It can be hooked into just about any wire that has switched voltage.

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reliving youth

blackford
Journeyman

Posts: 76
From: Corona, Ca
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 08-16-2005 11:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackford        Reply w/Quote
When I converted my '65 to a '66 GT gauge cluster, I ran the ammeter wires to the alternator output wire (the large wire) and the other wire to the starter solenoid. This makes the ammeter circuit in parallel with the alternator circuit, but the ammeter circuit should only carry a small percentage of the total current from the alternator. Now it takes only about 3/4 amp to fully deflect the ammeter gauge. The ammeter needle would deflect too much so I went to the electronics store and bought several 5 watt resistors with different resistance from 8 ohms to 21 ohms. I ended up using the 21 ohm resistor to limit the current to the ammeter and to make the needle deflect properly. 18 gauge wire is adequate for the ammeter gauge circuit. I also put a 3 amp fuse in the circuit to protect the ammeter from overcurrent. Everything is working great. Your one wire alternator will use the same general principles for the ammeter circuit.

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Tracy Blackford
'65 "Black" ford FB, 331 with H beam 289 rods, KB322s, fully prepped 351w heads, 282S cam, C-4 auto, 3.50 9" posi. Many Suspension and handling mods. 4.5 year restomod project completed in May '04. 313 RWHP @ 6300.

Mike W
Gearhead

Posts: 135
From: CA
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 08-17-2005 05:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike W        Reply w/Quote
I would use a voltmeter. It is a safer setup and tells you if the alternator is charging or not.

Red68fastback
Journeyman

Posts: 41
From: Kentucky
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 08-17-2005 11:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red68fastback        Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys. But I think I'm kind of now...lol. I don't know if my factory gauge is a voltage gauge or an amp gauge. It says alternator on it. And I don't want to add any aftermarket ones, I want my factory one to work. Man....I always hated electrical stuff...all I know about it is I get shocked by it...lol..

68mustang351w
Gearhead

Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 08-18-2005 03:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68mustang351w        Reply w/Quote
Stock is an ammeter (amp meter). I have mine unplugged and going with aftermarket voltmeter, sorry but i think its safer and more accurate... David F..

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