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Author
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Topic: Rear Cylinders shot
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 12:22 AM
 
When I was changing the tires around, I noticed that both wheels are wet. I started a thread about this, and was gonna do them, but the parts guy pissed me off, so I blew him off. Well, stopping is good, and parts are needed. I've did the brakes, and the drums were iffy then, but due to lack of funds, I can only do 1 end at a time. I am doing the rear cylinders (gimme), but should I do the front or rear with the brakes AND drums right now??? The other end will be done in 1 to 2 weeks from now. Thanks for any time and info on this.------------------
William 68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget. [This message has been edited by 68 Coop (edited 08-20-2005).]
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Green68
Journeyman Posts: 48
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
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posted 08-20-2005 12:46 AM
I've done brakes on many vehicles. You will not cause any problems by doing only the rear now and the front later. '68s have a dual master cyl so front and rear are independant. The drums are pretty thick on these and can be turned more than once so you might have them checked by a competent shop and if your lucky save a few bucks. New ones run about $50-$60 apiece.------------------
'68 302 2v C4
All stock ragtop
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 12:54 AM
Thanks for the reply. Welcome to M&M too by the way. Yeah, I was checking the Zone for prices. The fronts are 35+ change per drum, and the rears are either 45 or 60, so I'll have to wait to see for sure on which one's for them yet. I was just thinking since the front has the weight, it might be best to do that end first. Whdda ya think???------------------
William 68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget.
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 04:07 AM
IF i had to chose id do the front first...David F.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 04:33 AM
Thanks David. Now I just hope they got ALL the parts.------------------
William 68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget.
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 447
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 07:24 AM
The differance between the china and USA drums is not that much you should ask them to get you the USA ones. Just my 2 cents.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 10:11 AM
Well, this is what I found on-line at their site.
Drums and shoes are Duralast. Drums are 35 per.
2 yr warrenty on drums, lifetime on shoes for 13 bucks. Shoes are the riveted style, if in stock.
Brake kits range from 7 to 12.
Cylinders are covered for 3 mos, and are from Brakeware, for 16 drivers, and 11 pass side. Total with tax will be around 150.Questions: (1) Will I lose a lot of fluid from the cylinder change???
(2) How much fluid does it usually take to flush the system???
I'm gonna try to push all of it out without losing the MC, but the fluid in it is pretty nasty. Suggestions??? Thanks for the time and info already, and any more that you might want to add.  ------------------
William 68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget.
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 11:27 AM
You're going to lose fluid when you take the rear cylinders apart. I'd flush everything out to keep all that crappy fluid out of system.The following is just my opinion, so beware. I've worked on many drum brakes at home in my years. I invested in a honing tool for my drill to hone out the cylinders when replacing pistons and seals. Some cylinders are smaller/larger than others so the honing tool didn't fit all of them. So being poor at the time, I used a rolled up piece of emery cloth (fine sandpaper) and it has never failed me yet. My present 67 had bad rust pits on the inside of both rear cylinders and due to time constraints, couldn't go out and get new cylinders so used the emery cloth to take out the pits, then installed the new pistons and seals. That was 3 years ago. Good luck. ------------------
reliving youth
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mustangboy
Gearhead Posts: 1343
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-20-2005 12:13 PM
Coop run lots of fluid through the system when your bleeding it until it comes out nice and clean(and of course without bubbles).Do the longest line first(passenger rear)------------------
1968 mustang j-code sprint.13.69@101 306cu.in, stock ported heads,weiand exellerator,650 holley DP,hedman hedders,comp 292 Magnum cam,4-speed,8 inch 4.11 detroit locker...................................................................1966 mustang coupe project.289 4 speed,3.20 rear http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-20-2005 02:04 PM
Thankd guys, I had to order the front drums, and 1 rear cylinder. They had the other one, but the rubber was cut, so I said no thanks. The guy was cool tho, he found the cut and pointed it out to me. What a difference a shift makes at a parts store. As of right now, it's Tuesday, I don't want to start it till I can finish it Thanks for the replies, and hopefully ever thing goes good at that time...
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 08-21-2005 12:06 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
I don't want to start it till I can finish it
Don't forget to allow for Murphy's time. My son and I changed 4 rotors and pads today on his Mustang. Disc are easy, right? Snapped one lug nut stud on the front, cracked two sockets, had to break out the air gun to take off two lug nuts on the rear and make a trip to Sears to buy a second torque wrench. My exsisting torque wrench only goes up to 75 pounds, needed 85 pounds for the caliper carrier. What a day. ------------------
reliving youth
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Green68
Journeyman Posts: 48
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
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posted 08-21-2005 11:35 AM
'Coop,
Since you're into restomod, have you considered upgrading the front to disk brakes? There's a pretty good write up in the tech articles. By the number of posts you've got I'm sure you've seen it. This forum is my new home! Lots of good stuff here. Here's my other favorite site:
http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/119417 Good luck with the brakes.
--Mike ------------------
'68 302 2v C4
All stock ragtop
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 08-21-2005 09:29 PM
Yeah Mike, I wish I could go that route, but right now money is limited. Maybe next year. Thanks for the reply.------------------
William 68 Coupe
289
Edelbrock 600
Performer Intake
Headers/X-pipe/Flowmaster 30's
C4
8"rear/2:79gears
"Restomod in Progress" Good friends are hard to find, even harder to leave, and impossible to forget.
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