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Author
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Topic: Alternator voltage regulator wiring
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stc65coupe351w
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Moreno Valley/29 Palms, California
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-24-2006 06:01 PM
 
My neighbor's 65 coupe is not charging properly. It looks as if the Alt is not wired correctly. My question is on the back where it is labeled STA there is nothing on the post. The ground post is grounded and the yellow wire with black stripe is on the post that is on the same plate as the ground. The yellow/black wire runs to the voltage regulator but is cut and not hooked up. There is also nothing on the top spade of the regulator. When he turns on the lights they are dim until he gives it gas. Is the yellow/black wire supposed to be on the STA post and connected to the top spade of the regulator. I am guessing it may help increase the RPM's under load to accommodate for higher voltage draw? I tried looking at mine but I went to a one wire and nothing is hooked up anymore.
Any ideas? ------------------
-351w Bored .30-351w Heads Fully Ported
-Custom made Ford 9" 3.70
Michael
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 1069
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-24-2006 08:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stc65coupe351w:
My neighbor's 65 coupe is not charging properly. It looks as if the Alt is not wired correctly. My question is on the back where it is labeled STA there is nothing on the post. The ground post is grounded and the yellow wire with black stripe is on the post that is on the same plate as the ground. The yellow/black wire runs to the voltage regulator but is cut and not hooked up. There is also nothing on the top spade of the regulator. When he turns on the lights they are dim until he gives it gas. Is the yellow/black wire supposed to be on the STA post and connected to the top spade of the regulator. I am guessing it may help increase the RPM's under load to accommodate for higher voltage draw? I tried looking at mine but I went to a one wire and nothing is hooked up anymore.
Any ideas?
If the lights get brighter with more rpm's then the alternator is putting out some current it may be just a bad regulator.
Another thought is does he have underdrive pulleys?
I justa noticed that it is a 65, was the car a generator before or presently?------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS engine RPM Air Gap 650 Holley DP Crane 1.7 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer Nitrous, Dynomax ceramic headers WCZ rated-T5, cable clutch Flows X Pipe 3.89 9". Clearwater Aqua GT Clone Vintage wheel works 40 series 16X8 225 front 255/50 rear drag radials 308 RWHP@5800rpm 300 tq NA 385rwhp 380 w 75 shot 13.11 @111mph
92 VERT triple black 5 speed, 88 GT (FiveOfastback's ride)GT 40 X Track Heat, BBK headers X pipe 5 spd Red and Silver [This message has been edited by Tom G (edited 01-24-2006).]
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stc65coupe351w
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Moreno Valley/29 Palms, California
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-24-2006 08:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Tom G:
If the lights get brighter with more rpm's then the alternator is putting out some current it may be just a bad regulator.
Another thought is does he have underdrive pulleys?
I justa noticed that it is a 65, was the car a generator before or presently?[/QUOTE] I believe it was always a Alt. I gave him my old voltage regulator and it made no difference. What I am wondering is what wire goes on the STA post on the back of the Alt and if that wire goes onto the top spade of the voltage regulator. I still have the plug on my wire harness but I can not tell which wire goes where once it goes into the boot. He has no plug and just 3 wires with plugs on them for the regulator and nothing on the top spade and a disconnected yellow/black wire. ------------------
-351w Bored .30-351w Heads Fully Ported
-Custom made Ford 9" 3.70
Michael
Pics
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stc65coupe351w
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Moreno Valley/29 Palms, California
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-24-2006 08:55 PM
Also with a volt meter it shows around 13 volts at the battery at idle and with acceleration it goes up to almost 18 volts.
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 1163
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-25-2006 12:45 AM
My semieducated guess is 18 volts anywheres is too much and something is wrong. I can't see an old/bad battery causing too many volts so I think its in the alternator or the regulator or the wiring causing this. Chevy alternators with them internal regulators are so easy to just replace as a unit  If only GM would have stolen the Ford 9" plans they could have ruled the world.
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stc65coupe351w
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Moreno Valley/29 Palms, California
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-25-2006 11:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Toronado3800:
My semieducated guess is 18 volts anywheres is too much and something is wrong. I can't see an old/bad battery causing too many volts so I think its in the alternator or the regulator or the wiring causing this. Chevy alternators with them internal regulators are so easy to just replace as a unit If only GM would have stolen the Ford 9" plans they could have ruled the world.
I had thought about that. If I recall correctly Alex once ( or many times) said it should go to about 14 volts. Since the plug was cut off the wire ends there is no way to tell which wire goes where. My wiring diagram only shows the wires going into the plug and not which spade. It also does not show which post on the alt is labeled what? On my 65 the alt light came on at start and went off at 3000 rpm. I questioned the wiring so found it easier to go to a one wire.
Thanks for your help
Michael
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 1069
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-25-2006 05:53 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stc65coupe351w:
I believe it was always a Alt. I gave him my old voltage regulator and it made no difference. What I am wondering is what wire goes on the STA post on the back of the Alt and if that wire goes onto the top spade of the voltage regulator. I still have the plug on my wire harness but I can not tell which wire goes where once it goes into the boot. He has no plug and just 3 wires with plugs on them for the regulator and nothing on the top spade and a disconnected yellow/black wire.
If you have 18 volts with rpms don't run the car till you get a regulator of some type working it will cook the battery.
Blk Yel should go to ammeter thru firewall harness where it changes to yellow only. I would start with a new alternator harness they aren't that much. As you look at the regulator itself the terminal that is farthest to the left and has a bigger space between it and the others is labeled "I" should be ignition and be blk/grn or grn/red this one goes on the field terminal or "F" which is #4 from the left..
your STA wire should be white and should go on terminal marked "S" or 3rd from left. The black/red or black wire from alt should go on the "A" terminal which is 2nd from left. Hope this helps. Her is a link for a new or used I don't know which, HARNESS.
http://www.dealsonwheels.com/partsandaccessories/results.cfm?year=1965&vehiclemake=Ford&vehiclemodel=Mustang&part_number=&part_category=&keyword=&part_sort=&start_num=10------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS engine RPM Air Gap 650 Holley DP Crane 1.7 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer Nitrous, Dynomax ceramic headers WCZ rated-T5, cable clutch Flows X Pipe 3.89 9". Clearwater Aqua GT Clone Vintage wheel works 40 series 16X8 225 front 255/50 rear drag radials 308 RWHP@5800rpm 300 tq NA 385rwhp 380 w 75 shot 13.11 @111mph
92 VERT triple black 5 speed, 88 GT (FiveOfastback's ride)GT 40 X Track Heat, BBK headers X pipe 5 spd Red and Silver
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stc65coupe351w
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Moreno Valley/29 Palms, California
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-25-2006 11:32 PM
Thanks for the help.
My neighbor had it in to have the motor and trans rebuilt and it took almost 3 months. He had lots of fun issues.
I will print this and give it to him. It is his daughters car and it is not being driven at the moment.------------------
-351w Bored .30-351w Heads Fully Ported
-Custom made Ford 9" 3.70
Michael
Pics
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