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Author
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Topic: Oil
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Fastback1
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Laplata, Maryland, USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 01-24-2006 09:57 PM
 
What kind of motor oil should I run in a 289 with a mild cam in it. I was thinking synthetic 5w20 with a fl1a racing oil filter. And What kind of gear oil do you all use I was thinking lucas but my friends say no? Also I have had the motor rebuilt is there any way to prime the cylinder wall with oil so nothing seizes. And I will be checking back after I get it running with a good super charger. By the way I dont know if anybody is familiar with 1992 stang colors but there is a color called bimmi blue waht do you all think of this color on a 68 coupe with boyd coddington chrome rims and would you go saddle or ivy gold or nugget gold interior and what color would you paint the trim? ie: dash, doors, etc
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cobravenom71
Gearhead Posts: 1349
From: Poinciana, Fl USA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-25-2006 07:29 AM
Don't use the 5W-20. Your engine would live fine on Mobil 1 10W-30, or really any good name-brand 10W-30. For all reasons, I would recommend synthetic, but good ole' dino would suffice too.
Try to stay away from 20W-50. There is n o good reason for you to use it unless your engine is specifically designed for it, or is so incredibly worn-out that the heavy oil slows down a tapping/smoking situation.Royal Purple is a popular brand amongst car-restorers, and is also a great product, if a little pricey.
Any well known name-brand of gear oil is good also. I use Mobil 1 for everything: Oil, gear oil, trans fluid, grease. And...Bimini Blue is an awesome color...Go for it!
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 01-25-2006 08:42 AM
10w30.
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 4511
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-25-2006 09:33 AM
Hmmm, I've invested heavily in Mobil 1 fully synthetic, but the only stuff available here is 15-50W. That would be for the hot climate, right?
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-25-2006 09:34 AM
You can use a squirt can and shoot a little oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Then turn the engine over a few times by hand and that will spread the oil out evenly. You'll also want to prime the oil system before starting for the first time. As for the oil, I'd use conventional 10W-30 during the break in period (500 miles or so) then go with a good multiblend or synthetic in the same weight range.
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Fastback1
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Laplata, Maryland, USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 01-25-2006 03:36 PM
how do i prime the oil system
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cobravenom71
Gearhead Posts: 1349
From: Poinciana, Fl USA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-25-2006 03:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastback68:
Hmmm, I've invested heavily in Mobil 1 fully synthetic, but the only stuff available here is 15-50W. That would be for the hot climate, right?
No, putting significantly heavier oil in because it is hotter outside is not really the thing to do, no matter what anyone tells you. Your engine will do great on the 10W-30 in temps as high as 95 or so if you are just street driving/mild racing.
If your engine is relatively stock or close to it, and if you are driving on the street, a good 10W-30 will be best for you.
If you have a serious high-compression race engine that sees a lot of high rpm duty, then maybe the 15W-50 would be suggested.
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 4511
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-25-2006 06:41 PM
So maybe Mobil is dumping an excess of 15-50 on an undiscerning Philippine public? It's the only grade range they sell here 
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-25-2006 06:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastback68:
So maybe Mobil is dumping an excess of 15-50 on an undiscerning Philippine public? It's the only grade range they sell here
Why not? You guy will buy anything. Look at what you accept as a 'matching numbers' car!  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 4511
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 01-25-2006 07:01 PM
Oooh, a double whammy I've just thrown in the towel in the other thread.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-25-2006 07:03 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastback1:
how do i prime the oil system
By removing the distributor and using an oil primer on the end of an electric drill or you TAPE a 5/16 socket to a speed wrench and do it the old fashioned way. Turn it until you see oil coming up through the push rods and onto the rocker arms. (You'll have to remove a valve cover for that.) It'll turn fairly easily to begin with until the pressure starts to rise.
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 1163
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-26-2006 02:21 AM
I still ike the old style 10W30 instead of syntec just because of price. Whenever I have do anything which makes me even think an oil change is necessary I can change the oil and filter w/o worrying about being to afford going out the next weekend.
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Fastback1
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Laplata, Maryland, USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 01-26-2006 07:06 AM
Ok I am a retard I forgot to ask how much oil do I put in it its a 68 289 I put 1 in already then it hit me that i had to stop putting oil in after the first bottle because I dont know how much.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 01-26-2006 07:25 AM
It holds 5 quarts.------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement. 68 Coupe
289
C4
2:79 rear gears
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 01-26-2006 11:33 AM
I use 15W/50 Mobil 1 synthetic.Since it is synthetic, it still flows extremely well when cold, so that's not an issue. You might gain 1-5 horsepower with a watery thin race synthetic... but I don't really trust watery thin oils for long term durability. The Mobil 1 works just fine for me. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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Fastback1
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Laplata, Maryland, USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 01-26-2006 05:30 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 69 Sportsroof:
By removing the distributor and using an oil primer on the end of an electric drill or you [b]TAPE a 5/16 socket to a speed wrench and do it the old fashioned way. Turn it until you see oil coming up through the push rods and onto the rocker arms. (You'll have to remove a valve cover for that.) It'll turn fairly easily to begin with until the pressure starts to rise.[/B]
Ok WHat do you mean by tape a 5/16 socket to it I am only 16 but I know a lot about cars but I have never primed a oil system before. I was putting on my harmonic balancer and It was so hard to turn after like 3 revolutions Is that normal like you said it would be hard to turn?
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-26-2006 05:59 PM
I mean tape it because it will come loose and fall into the engine. The oil pump is driven by the distributor. The pump shaft fits into the bottom of the distributor shaft. A 5/16 socket will fit it.  This is the only picture I could find of the oil pump online. The shaft with the ring at the top is pump drive shaft. The engine is going to be very hard to turn if you still have the spark plugs in. Take them out to oil the cylinders. How long ago was the engine rebuilt? Has it been run at all since the rebuild?
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Fastback1
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Laplata, Maryland, USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 01-26-2006 06:33 PM
It was rebuilt about 6 months ago and I am going yo take the plugs out and squirt some oil in like that and the oil primer you are talking about do they sell them in like advance auto parts or pepboys or autozone any where like that and it has never been run since it was rebuilt. It was built by s and p enterprises they are big into ford motors and thats all they talk about at mir on fridays are his motors so I got him to build one for me.
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cobravenom71
Gearhead Posts: 1349
From: Poinciana, Fl USA
Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 01-27-2006 09:14 AM
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
I use 15W/50 Mobil 1 synthetic.Since it is synthetic, it still flows extremely well when cold, so that's not an issue. You might gain 1-5 horsepower with a watery thin race synthetic... but I don't really trust watery thin oils for long term durability. The Mobil 1 works just fine for me. Good Luck!
The fact that it is synthetic and flows well at cold temps has nothing to do with it, although that is a common misconception.
The viscosity at operating temp is not something you can judge by its low-temp pour characteristics.
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