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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  Front drum brake removal question.

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Author Topic:   Front drum brake removal question.
KILLER65
Journeyman

Posts: 36
From: sinton, tx. san patricio
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 02-23-2006 08:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KILLER65        Reply w/Quote
I know I could do a search but if you can help thanks.

Last night I started to pull the front drums off my 65 FB and these suckers will not come off. On the driver side it looks as though there are some keepers (2). On the passenger side all five studs have them. They are not the typical type push on they almost look like little fingers holding them in. If there is a way to get them off let me know.

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-23-2006 08:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
Assuming you are working on the fronts.
The drum will not come off of the hub.
It is pressed on.
You must remove the grease cap in the center, then pull the cotter pin, then unscrew the spindle nut, and only then can you remove the hub and drum assembly.

If you are working on the rears, then you will need to back off the self adjusters from behind the backing plate, then get the largest BFH you have and whack the drum edge from behind in a criss cross pattern.
------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

[This message has been edited by Moneymaker (edited 02-23-2006).]

Aussie XAXB
Gearhead

Posts: 131
From: North Olmsted, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 02-25-2006 09:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Aussie XAXB        Reply w/Quote
The drums are not "pressed on". The nut on the spindle is the only thing keeping the drum on the spindle. Once you remove the dust cap and the cotter pin, nut retainer, and nut you should be able to pull the drum right off along with the outer bearing. If the drum hangs up because there is a ridge worn into the edge inside and the shoes snag on it then you will need to turn the self adjuster down to collapse the shoes. There is no need to ever use a hammer on front drums. Sometimes rear drums will rust to the hub though.

Steve

------------------
My Mad Max Interceptor Project http://xaxbinterceptor.tripod.com

Wife's 1966 Mustang Site http://purplestang66.tripod.com

My Custom Part Shop Temporary Site http://purplestang66.tripod.com/artisticmachine

66 fastback
Gearhead

Posts: 223
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 02-25-2006 09:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 fastback        Reply w/Quote
That is not entirely accurate either, once the drum and hub assembly is off the car, you will have to remove the wheel studs in order to remove the drum. They are swedged to hold the drum and hub together, if you look very closely you can see the stud is expanded on the outside of the drum. These can and very likely will be very difficult to remove.

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-25-2006 10:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
OK, you guys win.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 02-25-2006 10:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
Assuming you are working on the fronts.
The drum will not come off of the hub.
It is pressed on.

I agree!
In its original condition, the front drum is held to the hub via the pressed-in studs. The hub is bolted to the spindle.
Take off the spindle nut and the hub/drum assembly can come off the spindle if the shoes are not binding on a ridge inside the drum .

Considering these cars are 40+ years old, and who knows what kind of idiot shadetree mechanic may have worked on it in the past, I have seen drums that will come off the hub because someone clearanced the stud holes.


KILLER65
Journeyman

Posts: 36
From: sinton, tx. san patricio
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 02-25-2006 12:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KILLER65        Reply w/Quote
I dont know if the drums have ever been off the car. Going to mess with it tonight to see if I can get these suckers off.

Thanks for the help.

69 Sportsroof
Gearhead

Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 02-25-2006 01:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69 Sportsroof        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Aussie XAXB:
The drums are not "pressed on".

Yes they are. They are pressed onto the HUB as Moneymaker has already stated. The hub and drum do not seperate. They can be sererated but not for any good reason as you can't replace the parts individually. You have to remove the spindle nut, as mentioned, and back off the shoes from the rear of the backing plate. You'll probably have to whack the drum a time or two with a rubber mallet. Be careful of the brake dust. You dont want to inhale that stuff.

John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 02-25-2006 02:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 69 Sportsroof:
Yes they are. They are pressed onto the HUB as Moneymaker has already stated. The hub and drum do not seperate. They can be sererated but not for any good reason as you can't replace the parts individually.

Seems to me we are concerning ourselves with something like "It depends on what the definition of is, is."

To remove the drum from the car you do what Alex said. However in addition to the drum you are removing the studs, hub and bearings. To replace the drum you need to seperate the hub from the drum, which to me means a trip to the machine shop since a press is needed.

The drums are sold as seperate pieces from the hubs, so there is a good reason to seperate them. By the way, I priced drums at a mustang only place (Metro) and they were ~$65. The most expensive 65 Mustang drum at rockautoparts.com was ~$22, Raybestos #1643. You should be able to get drums at local auto parts stores. The mustang place sells seperate hubs for 65-66 Mustangs, I did not find hubs at the general parts store.

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-25-2006 02:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
You can still buy brand new "hub and drum" assemblies. Guardian and Wagner both market them.

Years ago when labor was much cheaper, it was common to buy a drum only and 5 new studs.
Most repair shops had presses and would transfer the hub or if they did not have one they would have the machine shop of a parts store do the swap. Then you also had the additional labor of resurfacing the new drum due to the hub swap.
Hub and drum assembly became a quicker and cheaper proposition.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 02-25-2006 06:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
You can still buy brand new "hub and drum" assemblies. Guardian and Wagner both market them.

I wish you had not posted that, since you did I've done nothing but search the internet for a drum-hub combo and came up empty. I tell my students that there is more to the world than the internet, but...

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 02-25-2006 09:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
Didn't use the internet, just my hard cataloges.
My NAPA store carries Guardian and they can have two for me on Monday.
10x2.5

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 02-25-2006 09:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Didn't use the internet, just my hard cataloges.
My NAPA store carries Guardian and they can have two for me on Monday.
10x2.5

Let that be a lesson to me.
There is more to the world than the internet.
There is more to the world than the internet.
Probably should repeat that a few more times!

Shame on NAPA for not listing them on line!

Jake11
Gearhead

Posts: 246
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005

posted 02-27-2006 12:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jake11        Reply w/Quote

The world is full of good folk's. Just
seek them out.

KILLER65
Journeyman

Posts: 36
From: sinton, tx. san patricio
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 02-27-2006 12:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for KILLER65        Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the help guys. You do have to remove the spindle nut and adjust the brake pad adjuster(to make it easier)to remove the drum.

Jake11
Gearhead

Posts: 246
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005

posted 02-28-2006 08:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jake11        Reply w/Quote

(The original drums were indeed pressed on,
most aftermarket drums have a bigger set of
holes)

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