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Author
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Topic: Dismantle Distributor to make oil prime tool?
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sprcoop Gearhead Posts: 780 From: Tucson, AZ usa Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-04-2006 03:38 PM
The subject pretty much covers it. I am trying to take apart my old distributor from a 72' 302. I see what looks like a couple of pins on the shaft holding the cam gear and another bushing or something and so I drilled them. Still couldn't get it apart. What's the secret? ------------------ Jerry Cooper Candy Apple Red, 66' Coupe, Wide Ratio Toploader 9" 3.25 Traction Loc 302 Block on the Engine stand Soon to be 300+ HP 15" Styled Steel Wheels
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 48752 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 03-04-2006 03:56 PM
You don't drill them, you knock them out with a pin punch.------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL
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68mustang351w Gearhead Posts: 558 From: San Jose, Ca Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 03-04-2006 04:33 PM
Or you can always rent/buy one from most parts places. Maybe like a $15 tool... David F.
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sprcoop Gearhead Posts: 780 From: Tucson, AZ usa Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-04-2006 07:01 PM
Steve, Thanks, I thought they were just flared pins that would fall out after I drilled the flair.68Mustang351W, I'm sure that I could actually borrow one from Chiefs for nothing. but what's the fun in that if I have an old distributor that I would throw away anyhow. Thanks for the suggestion though!
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Scott H Gearhead Posts: 1480 From: Chicago area Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-04-2006 09:01 PM
I use a 1/4" drive socket taped to the end of a 12" long extension (tape is so it doesn't fall off by accident). Takes about 30 seconds to make, less time if you're more organized .
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mustangboy Gearhead Posts: 1343 From: Ont, Canada Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 03-05-2006 04:29 PM
quote: Originally posted by sprcoop: Steve, Thanks, I thought they were just flared pins that would fall out after I drilled the flair.68Mustang351W, I'm sure that I could actually borrow one from Chiefs for nothing. but what's the fun in that if I have an old distributor that I would throw away anyhow. Thanks for the suggestion though!
I made one using an old distributor shaft and it works great.I welded a bolt onto the top so I would have something to stick in the chuck of my drill.
------------------ 68 J-Code,Sprint,306 4 speed,4.11s 13.69@101............... 66 coupe 289 4 speed, 3.20 cruiser http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy2.html
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 48752 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 03-05-2006 06:11 PM
quote: Originally posted by Scott H: I use a 1/4" drive socket taped to the end of a 12" long extension (tape is so it doesn't fall off by accident). Takes about 30 seconds to make, less time if you're more organized .
That's what I do, too, actually. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL
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sprcoop Gearhead Posts: 780 From: Tucson, AZ usa Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-05-2006 11:17 PM
I may still go the 1/4" socket route. After I got it apart I see that it does not fit my 3/8" drill chuck (I guess Mustangboy already figured that one out)and I don't have welding equipment. If it doesn't fit the 1/2" drill from work 1/4" socket it is. Thanks again.
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Scott H Gearhead Posts: 1480 From: Chicago area Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 03-05-2006 11:28 PM
Forgot to mention, it helps to use a deep well socket, so part of it goes into the recess for the oil pump shaft and the part with the tape stays above the hole.
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n.id.steve Journeyman Posts: 38 From: Post Falls,Id. Registered: May 2004
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posted 03-06-2006 03:07 AM
I drove out just the pin for the cam gear and slipped it off. I install the dist. and chuck a hex wrench in a variable speed drill to spin the shaft. Use a wrench that will just fit the slot for the rotor.
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