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Author
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Topic: signs of life. Carb truble and ????s 3 pictures
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-22-2006 09:27 PM
Hey all,It is alive, just needs a little help.. Ok, well I got the carb Friday. Had a little problem with the post office. It looks great!! Had to pick up a couple of small things to finish off the project. I get 3 of the 4 studs in to hold down the carb and I find that the 4th is stripped. Bummer. Not sure how to fix that. Any suggestions there? I would love a tick that I can do to not have to take off the carb or at least the intake. Anyway I got everything on. Set the car to what I think is TDC (that took a few tries). Then she fired up. once I got her fired up she ran at a high rpm and the carb had gas coming out of the top of it. My buddy came over and we started it up again, almost, and he saw the gas coming out of a little hole on the top of the carb on the back part of it. The gas also comes up the brass tubes. I don't think gas should come out the top. I did not do any adjusting with the carb, just put it on. Is there something I should have done with it before putting it on? I have read that you should never turn a carb upside down and I didn't but I wonder if it did during shipping. It is was rebuild by my good mustang pal Scott so I know that it is in good shape. I have not touched it since. What should I do with it? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. How do you think it looks so far???? Richard. ------------------ rmousir '66 Mustang Ford Blue & white stripes 302 auto Mustang ~ 04-05
SOON TO HAVE A NEWER '95 HO
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capri man Gearhead Posts: 8777 From: doerun, ga. Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-22-2006 10:26 PM
richard, was that the intake that you got from me that had a stripped out hole?? if so i cant figure it out cause i took it off my car just before i shipped it to you.  ------------------ mike r racing is real everything else is just a game. 81 capri-302-7.25 @93mph 1/8 1.54 60ft 50 % of the fun dragracing is meeting people who will give you the shirt off their back to wipe the grease off your hands. M&M member #839 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/mike470/adel2.jpg
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sprcoop Gearhead Posts: 780 From: Tucson, AZ usa Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 04-23-2006 12:42 AM
Richard, That carb looks alot like my 4100. I just got done with a similar situation. Yours may be the same. Mine also poured fuel out the top of the carb after just a few seconds of running. There is a float in the bowl that controls a valve. It's called a needle and seat. The float goes up as the fuel comes in and the needle lowers onto the seat and shuts off the fuel flow. If there is the slightest little piece of junk on the needle or seat the fuel just keeps on a comin', over flows the bowl and dumps gas all over the intake and floods the engine. If you take the 8 screws off the top of the carb you can swivel the lid so that you can see the float. I bet the primary float is below the level of fuel. Suck the gas out of the bowl (turkey baster or whatever) so you can lower the float until the needle comes up. Spray the needle and seat with carb cleaner from every angle you can hit it from. Put it together and try it again. If that does not do it then pull the carb off the car, take out the screws, pull the c clip off the choke linkage, pull the lid off, take the retaining clips off the floats, turn the carb upside down (I don't know why you wouldn't, I did) and spray the needle, seat and bowl to wash every possible contaminate out. I had mine flood out twice then did the second procedure and have put about 100 miles on it since. If I'm wrong one of the many experts about will give you the real story but that's the way I see it. Nice looking setup. Hope it runs as good as it looks.
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bob6364 Gearhead Posts: 447 From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447 Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 04-23-2006 04:03 AM
give the carb a couple of love taps with the handle of a hammer in the fuel float area,I bet the needle valve got hung up during shipping,if that don't work or you can't bring your self to smack you nice carb take the top off and look for the little chrome thing at the end of the float,its most likely stuck open.Good luck
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SNAKGUTS Journeyman Posts: 81 From: Panama City Florida, USA Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 04-23-2006 07:24 AM
Richard,A heli coil will fix the stud problem. JimBob
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-23-2006 09:23 AM
quote: Originally posted by capri man: richard, was that the intake that you got from me that had a stripped out hole?? if so i cant figure it out cause i took it off my car just before i shipped it to you. 
Pretty sure. It is the offey 360 intake. It is the only problem with the intake. Don't worry I am not upset as I expect some things like to happen when I buy used.
A heli coil will fix the stud problem. What is that and where can I get one?
Don't think I will hit the carb with the hammer but I will check it out. Thanks I will let everyone know how it goes. Should be able to check it out today.
Richard.
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capri man Gearhead Posts: 8777 From: doerun, ga. Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-23-2006 09:49 AM
its kinda like a threaded shim that gos in the stripped out hole. you just drill out the hole a little bigger and insert the helicoil then screw your stud into it. good luck------------------ mike r racing is real everything else is just a game. 81 capri-302-7.25 @93mph 1/8 1.54 60ft 50 % of the fun dragracing is meeting people who will give you the shirt off their back to wipe the grease off your hands. M&M member #839 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/mike470/adel2.jpg
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SNAKGUTS Journeyman Posts: 81 From: Panama City Florida, USA Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 04-23-2006 10:56 AM
Richard,You can get a kit at most any parts store. It should come with a drill bit, a special tap, an installation tool and the coils. The coils are made of steel so you actually get stronger threads after installation. Being a Harley type guy, I've has to install plenty of them. JimBob
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-23-2006 02:20 PM
quote: Originally posted by SNAKGUTS: Being a Harley type guy, I've has to install plenty of them. JimBob
LOL. My neighbor accross the street is a harley guy. He had a couple but it turned out that we did not need it. I re-tapped it and put the stud back in. It is tight now. Good to know that I can use them though. I figured in the worse case I would jb weld it. Now I have the needle fixed and the gas is not spuing out I got the car running and ran it for a while. I have oil pressure and the timing cover is not leaking like I thought it would. It fires up real nice and sounds great. No knocking or studdering. The fan is doing a great job and there are no problems as near as I can see. That is the good news. The bad news is: I have a small drip of oil from the front some where. Not somthing that i would worry about but I would like to fix it anyway. I think it is from the oil dip stick tube. I will check it out. Also the carb is ideling a little higher than I would like. I don't have a tach but I would say it is mabe 500 to 1000 rpms to high. When I put the car in gear the rpms drop and it sounds ok but the car jumps into gear. I don't think my hood is going to work anymore with the offy intake, 1" spacer, the carb, and a nice chrome air filter. It might fit with my old one but that is a baby air cleaner. Hmmmm. What to do here??? My batter or my alt may be bad because I had to hook up my charger twice today. Not sure there. Once started though the car runs fine and such. SO on the carb are two screws in the front, the idel screw on the side and another screw on the other side of the carb. As I understand it the two on the front are for the air/fuel mixture for the 2 front jets and the 2 back jets. How is the carb fine tuned? Any tricks or things I should check to get the car to idel a little lower? The exhaust is very gasy smelling. Would I use the two screws on the front of the carb to change that? Thanks in advanced for any help, suggestions, or ideas. Richard.
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Jake11 Gearhead Posts: 246 From: Banning,Ca,USA Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 04-23-2006 04:50 PM
Congrat's The two screws under the front. With the engine off, gently turn them both in till they seat. Now turn them back out 1 and 1/2 turns. That should be a close starting point. The screw on the driver side controls idle speed. Make sure the choke is opening all the way, or it will idle too fast. KP
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-23-2006 05:53 PM
quote: Originally posted by Jake11: Congrat's The two screws under the front. With the engine off, gently turn them both in till they seat. Now turn them back out 1 and 1/2 turns. That should be a close starting point. The screw on the driver side controls idle speed. Make sure the choke is opening all the way, or it will idle too fast. KP
Thanks. I will do that but for now the car will sit. I got it to idel much better. Even took it for a drive to see how she does. Runs real nice. Has some get up and go. I don't have the kick down on it yet but for now I am pretty happy. Not sure I got the full 4 barrels to light up yet either. When I got back I found that not only do I have a small oil leak at the front (which is a almost nothing leak) I found that I have a much bigger leak at the back. I can't see any way around it. I am pretty sure it is the rear main seal. Really dissapointed right now. I put a brand new seal in before I put the motor in too. It fit real tight. Not sure why it would be leaking. Bummer! Richard.
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bob6364 Gearhead Posts: 447 From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447 Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 04-23-2006 07:22 PM
Enought of that stuff...the real question is did you smack the carb with a hammer BahahahahBTW you can just downshift to second manually and forget the whole kickdown lever if you want and don't slip back to D untill 65-70 mph or 45-50 if you going easy on her.
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-23-2006 08:45 PM
Yeah I can shift it down manually if needed....I am just really disapointed that I have to pull the motor again. I guess the bright side is that I bought the motor hoist instead of renting it so I it sitting there waiting to be used again. I am pretty sure I can pull the motor and check things out and put it back in a day. Just depends on where it is leaking from. Maybe next Sunday. We will see.
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-24-2006 08:59 PM
got all of the top stuff off tonight. Should have it out the next time I work on it.
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rmousir Gearhead Posts: 1124 From: Amelia, Ohio Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-26-2006 07:29 PM
I pulled the motor. I must be getting good. Took less than 3 hours. Anyway I have attached a pic of the rear main. Everything looks fine near as I can tell. When I checked out the bolts and the threads on the crank I could see that there is some left over sealent in there and on the bolts. So I am 99.9% sure that is where the leak is. I don't see anything wrong with the rear main. So my thought is to lub up the bolts (no to much) with the blue gasket sealent and put it all back together. What do you think? Can I use the blue stuff or is there something else I should use?Oh and I broke my chrome oil dip stick. Anyone notice that they really don't fit or is it just me?
Richard. making progress [This message has been edited by rmousir (edited 04-26-2006).]
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