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Author
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Topic: head question
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lmtech
Journeyman Posts: 32
From: houston,Tx, USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 04-29-2006 09:23 AM
 
I am thinking about replacing the heads on my 68 coupe. They are original and I have replace the cam, have a new intake, carb and tri-y headers with 2.5 flowmaster exhaust kit. Someone has offered to give me a set of early 80's heads with a casting number of E6AE. I think they are off of an LTD. Are these worth bothering with?? I am considering them because they have hardened seats, screw in studs etc... my current heads don't. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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sprcoop
Gearhead Posts: 780
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 04-29-2006 12:19 PM
Imtech, you might try posting this on the racing forum. Also, maybe more info on your current heads and more numbers for the considered heads. E6AE comes up quite often as Aerostar 6 cylinder head. Information on your current heads would be important as that would be a factor to be considered for a performance difference. TTT
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-29-2006 02:58 PM
I would not waste my time with those.
Not worth the time or effort.
Look for a deal on some aftermarket Windsor Jr.'s or 69 351W heads.------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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lmtech
Journeyman Posts: 32
From: houston,Tx, USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 04-29-2006 04:07 PM
The heads on my car are cast # C80E which according to Mr. Moores' book means I have 63cc combustion chambers. I don't know where else on the head to look for an ID number or code they would help ID it.
Anyone know where I can get a good deal on a set of Windsor jr's or 69 351 heads??
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683024v
Journeyman Posts: 16
From: Indiana
Registered: Jun 2005
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posted 05-01-2006 09:45 PM
What are windsor jr's?
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 27681
From: Hampton Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-01-2006 09:59 PM
They are the smaller chamber size World Products heads.http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400240+315059+4294867028+115+4294840071&autoview=sku
Sam
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mustangboy
Gearhead Posts: 1343
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 05-01-2006 10:02 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 683024v:
What are windsor jr's?
They are an aftermarket head made by world products.....If your 68 is a 2 barrel it has the big combustion chambers that kill compression(63cc).What is the next digit in the casting # C8OE-?..Its the next numeral that identifies the head.------------------
68 J-Code,Sprint,306 4 speed,4.11s 13.69@101...............
66 coupe 289 4 speed, 3.20 cruiser http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy2.html
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BornInAFord
Gearhead Posts: 610
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 05-02-2006 04:20 PM
Yeah, try for a 1969 351W head or a 1996-1997 GT40 (Explorer/Mountaineer) head! You can also try the 1997.5-2001 GT40P (Explorer/Mountaineer) heads as they are the most advanced factory-produced SBF iron heads ever made (in my opinion) in terms of both power production and fuel efficiency, but will require P-specific headers due to revised spark plug angles (although some other headers/manifolds may work). Both the GT40 heads (also used on the early/mid 90s Mustang Cobra) and the GT40P heads will bold on without modifications and are easy to find both on e-bay or at any wrecking yard.Stay away from the E6AE heads!!! The E6AE heads (from 1986) were a one year only head. While the combustion chamber is designed for fuel efficiency, the valve angles mean you have to use 86-specific pistons and are stuck with stock low-compression.  The E7AE are much better than the E6AEs but not as good the 69 351W or the GT40/GT40P heads. Since you are replacing your heads, you might as well upgrade to better heads, not worse ones! 
Daniel [This message has been edited by BornInAFord (edited 05-02-2006).]
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lmtech
Journeyman Posts: 32
From: houston,Tx, USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 05-02-2006 05:52 PM
slight numerical error, the heads are e5ae not e6's. I am probably going to use them for now because I cannot afford a set of 69 351w and a valve job for them. It would not be worth getting the hardened seats and a valve job on my original c80e's so I guess I'll take what I can get and start saving my pennies for some nice new heads eventually. I appreciate everyones input as usual, it was very helpful.
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lmtech
Journeyman Posts: 32
From: houston,Tx, USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 05-02-2006 05:54 PM
I am planning going to use a retro kit so the lifters will be adjustable. We'll se what happens.
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BornInAFord
Gearhead Posts: 610
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 05-02-2006 06:09 PM
Here's an interesting article I found that talks about the GT40/GT40P heads. Your heads really have to be part of the entire scheme... what cam you have (lift, duration, expected torque curve), the carburetor, intake and exhaust, the transmission, the rear end ratio, your driving style and expectations all have to match to make the most your performance goals. Assuming you have mild street performance in mind, you can't go wrong with a tried-and-true combo like Alex's (Moneymaker's) 1HP/cube combo (there's a thread here somewhere) using the 69 351W head and other parts. Since you have new intake, carb, cam and headers, it makes sense to try to match the heads around your current combo. For this reason a head like the 1969 351W mentioned (or the some of the other heads) will be a good match for your current needs and allow you to add performance parts without having to start over, so to speak. If you have the money to spend, some of the aluminum heads will help you meet these goals, too, as well as take some weight off the front end. They do cost significantly more (around $1000), and take away from the budget angle. If you do go this route, the better heads seem to be AFR 165s (or 185s if you want to maximize performance in the future), Edelbrocks, and a few others (I don't want to give a comprehensive list here, but a search will turn up some favorites of the group). For maximum performance heads, World Jr. heads are a good choice. If you are on a budget (like most of us), stick with iron heads like mentioned. Port match your intake and do mild porting on the exhaust. Optimize timing and the jet sizes on your carburetor. Have fun! And before you spend a lot of money on parts, ask here for advice, ideas, opinions, and experiences. You may be surprised how much money and aspirin you can save by a few well-worded questions. 
Daniel
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