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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  Coming off of the rotisserie

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Author Topic:   Coming off of the rotisserie
kinger44
Gearhead

Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 05-16-2006 08:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kinger44        Reply w/Quote
The car is finally going to be ready tomorrow or Thursday. It's been months in the paint shop, but I don't want to rehash that.

My question is about what should and shouldn't be assembled when it leaves the paint shop. The fenders, trunk and doors are off the car now and have been painted separately. All the other little pieces too (1/4 caps, buckets, hood signal light pieces, valences etc.) So the "car" is just a shell with the hood (underside is painted), door jambs, 1/4's and roof left to paint. My assembly guy wants it all back together before we get it back. He wants them to have it all done so that we can see the lines, know that it fits etc. The paint guys disagree, saying that we will want the fenders off to assemble the drive line, the doors off to assemble the interior, etc. They also talk about the car sitting in the rotisserie and how it's flexed so if they are going to reassemble they want to put it on the floor to eliminate that.

I see both their points of view. I'm stuck in the middle. What should I do? It's a total shell right now, no suspension, axles, nothing.

Any help greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks

Gregg

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68 coupe, red on black. FULL RESTORATION UNDERWAY!!! http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/kinger44.html

gjz30075
Gearhead

Posts: 105
From: Roswell, Ga.
Registered: Apr 2004

posted 05-16-2006 09:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for gjz30075        Reply w/Quote
I'd make it a roller before putting on the doors and fenders. Start with the rear springs, axle, gas line, brake lines, and front suspension. If you can, put the engine in. You can also go with some cosmetic stuff like end caps, tail lights, gas tank, wiring, trunk lid, headliner and glass. Big care needs to be taken now with the doors and fenders.

lonewolf
Gearhead

Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 05-16-2006 10:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for lonewolf        Reply w/Quote
I would also reassemble into a roller. It's alot easier to fix any chips you might during assembly while it's at the shop than it would be at home.

I also agree with assembling on the floor. I would hang all of the suspension first, then the doors and then fenders/hood/etc.

HTH,

Rick

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Lonewolf
1968 Coupe in Pieces
99 1/2 F250
FFR MkIII

Darryl Eichenlaub
Gearhead

Posts: 124
From: Buckley,Wa.
Registered: Dec 2005

posted 05-16-2006 10:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Darryl Eichenlaub        Reply w/Quote
I also agree with the roller thing, front and rear supension, drive train, gas tank ect. Then you'll want as much of the weight of the car back on the car before you hang the doors, so before you install glass do the headliner. I feel it's a good time to just finish the interior. When you hang and fit the doors do them with the glass in (weight). After the doors fit the front sheet metal. From there it's off to the races. The old adage "A thousand different ways to skin a cat" can come into play here, but how many times to you want to gap the doors, then regap the fenders, ect.....

------------------
Darryl Eichenlaub
1965 Mustang Coupe restomod 289,c4,body and interior mods.
1956 F-100 460,c6,9" major body mods, on going project.
1967 Mustang Fastback, father/son project 5.0,5spd,9".
1975 F250 4x4 Highboy 390,4spd,35",custom paint.
2002 Mustang v6,5spd, daughters college ride.
2001 Ford Escape, Wifes grocery getter.

gmliebau
Gearhead

Posts: 691
From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 05-16-2006 02:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for gmliebau        Reply w/Quote
I would really recommend that you allow the body guy to hang most everything...like fenders, valances, hood, trunk, doors, headlight housings, grill, etc. So if he dings the paint, it's his fault and will fix it.

kinger44
Gearhead

Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 05-18-2006 10:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kinger44        Reply w/Quote
FINALLY, it's getting red. They shot it today. By tonight it should have been done, hood striped, and cleared. With any luck we can pick it up Sat morning and my guy can actually start building me a car! Just red base here.

sprcoop
Gearhead

Posts: 780
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 05-19-2006 12:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprcoop        Reply w/Quote
I have to say that's exciting. I'm excited and it's not even my car. I bet you can't sleep! Gonna be cool.

IF my car ever get's painted again I'm going to let a pro do it instead of doing it myself (again) and the hood, decklid and doors will be off. I didn't have enough room in my garage. I'm jealous.

kinger44
Gearhead

Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 05-19-2006 08:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kinger44        Reply w/Quote
thanks for the comments. Saw it again the a.m. It is finished now, the black hood stripes and all cleared. Baked it overnight. It really does look amazing. Will post some pics when I get them. They are hanging the doors, fenders etc. today. My guy should get it first thing tomorrow. It's a long weekend here in Canada, so he will have 3 days to work on it.

Does the fun start now? It's been a lot a stress so far! I must admit that the thread I ran a year or so ago was right on. It takes a lot longer, and costs a lot more than you think.

Cheers,

Gregg

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 05-19-2006 10:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
Exciting stuff
Very cool

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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