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Author
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Topic: Door hinges
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 05-23-2006 12:09 AM
 
What's the best/easiest way to change them? Thanks for any time and info.------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement. 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 05-23-2006 12:42 AM
Easiest way is to pay someone else to do it!  Seriously, they are a pain in the butt, and can be very difficult to do without scratching the paint somewhere. I've found that a 1/4" drive socket set with multiple lengths of extensions and a universal join (swivel) is the minimum you will need. With the door swung wide open you should be able to see the cowl bolts thru the fender gap, but you'll probably have to use a box wrench to get the bolts out of the door. Only do 1 hinge at a time. Anytime you loosen a hinge you will be changing the door gaps and alignment, so if you leave one of them tight while working with the other, you might be able to keep them closer to being aligned. And when it comes to final alignment, the door should be able to swing shut and align the body lines without the door latch striker in place (the striker should not pull the door into alignment). The part of the hinge that attaches to the body can move forward or backward, and up or down. The part attached to the door will also allow the door to tilt in or out and move up or down. That's 8 different directions for each hinge! To support the door you can use a hydraulic jack near the end, with a folded towel to protect the paint.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 05-23-2006 01:27 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Scott H:
Easiest way is to pay someone else to do it!
Ain't that the truth !Thanks Scott, I ain't worried about the paint. Would it be easier to do this without the fenders on? I have a floor jack, so that's not a problem. You covered it pretty good Scott, now I'm just wondering about the fenders. Hell I might as well get these outta the way too. If it's easiest to do it without the fenders, I need help to locate all the bolts that hold it on, and what is the basic gap to set my doors at so I can realign my fenders and hood to the right gaps. Right now, they ALL look like crap. Thanks for any time and info, it's greatly appreciated. ------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement. 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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Dreamcometrue
Gearhead Posts: 903
From: New-Brunswick,Canada
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 05-23-2006 05:35 AM
Hi William. I did mine last year and I removed the door completely. They weren't too hard to reajust but during the whole process, you'll need a helper. You won't be able do do it by yourself.
Completely removing the hinges allows you to use a vise as you have to remove the bushings. Also, buying the right pin and bushing kit is a great idea. With some latter years kits, you have to drill the hinges to fit the bushings.
Hope it helps, Rino 
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Darryl Eichenlaub
Gearhead Posts: 124
From: Buckley,Wa.
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 05-23-2006 06:49 AM
This is how I just did it, I removed the fenders and then did one hinge at a time keeping the door closed. That way you can keep the your basic alignment of your door. After both hinges are changed then you can fine tune the door with the quarter panel and the rocker. Then regap the fenders. I thought it would be easier to start with the gaps I had then to try and regap from scratch. Before you remove your fender decide how the gaps look on the cowl and the sides of the hood to the fender, if you need to make adjustment you can allow for that with the doors width adjustments. It goes pretty easy, just make small moves and just tighten the bolts firmly untill your finished then torque them. As for the gap widths, the rocker to the door will be decided by body lines, the door to the quarter panel about 1/4" or so. What makes the gaps look crappy is if they are all different, try to keep them all the same, if the bottom of the door gap is 3/16" then keep that for the quarter to door gap and then the door to fender gap. Don't get in a hurry and take your time. Good luck. Darryl------------------
Darryl Eichenlaub
1965 Mustang Coupe restomod 289,c4,body and interior mods.
1956 F-100 460,c6,9" major body mods, on going project.
1967 Mustang Fastback, father/son project 5.0,5spd,9".
1975 F250 4x4 Highboy 390,4spd,35",custom paint.
2002 Mustang v6,5spd, daughters college ride.
2001 Ford Escape, Wifes grocery getter.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 05-23-2006 08:14 PM
I got new hinges Rino, but I'm not having the best of luck with changing parts here lately, so it's probably moot. I think I will take the fenders off, that way I can have room to do my front end rebuild and disc brake kit. Thanks Men, it looks like the car will be down for awile when I get started.------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement. 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 05-23-2006 10:11 PM
If you want to use shims, a paint stir stick taped to the rocker panel at the front and the rear, plus pieces taped to the quarter panel door jam will give you nice even gaps.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 05-23-2006 11:00 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Scott H:
If you want to use shims, a paint stir stick taped to the rocker panel at the front and the rear, plus pieces taped to the quarter panel door jam will give you nice even gaps.
Great idea. Now for the biggest job of all, to get my GF to come to reality, and clean out MY garage. ------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement. 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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