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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  My brand new Edelbrock blew up!

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Author Topic:   My brand new Edelbrock blew up!
66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-06-2006 12:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
I got some leaky welds in the exhaust pipes fixed after getting the new Edelbrock performer 1403, however the carb was still running a bit rich. So I drive back down to the SF Bay this morning to get the carb tuned a little more finely. I also had my rear qrt window fixed, the little round roller that slides in the window track broke. The guy did both the carb adjust and window repair for me for free - isn't he a great guy?

This was about 11am this morning, i drove around the bay all day: making stop after stop w/no problems. I get on the hywy @ 4pm, drive 100 miles home, come to the stop light at the end of the freeway exit and the car cutts off and will not start again AAA had to tow me home isn't that some Crap? Like i said in my last post "It seems like this kind of thing only happens to me".

A guy came along and took a look before AAA arived and got the thing going for a minute, he said that I had flooded the carb. He got it to run twice but it died both times so i said forget it and let AAA tow it to my house. The good samaritan also said that my floats were adjusted too high, and we did see gas leaking down into the carb--i don't know if those two event are related or not.

Any thoughts, comments, or good stories come to mind about this one?

------------------
'66 Vert, 289, 3speed, w/procars.
A removable 14in grant steering wheel.
Granada disk break swap.
15x7&15x8 steel styles w/225-60-15's.
Front & rear sways.
5-leaf rear leaf sprrings and magnaflows.

[This message has been edited by 66drop (edited 06-06-2006).]

Mark Ugrich
Gearhead

Posts: 351
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 06-06-2006 12:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mark Ugrich        Reply w/Quote
Could be dirt in the inlet valve(needle and seat).It sounds like it's time to clean or replace the valve and install a new fuel filter or clean it if it's that type.Hard to believe the float height would be off on a new carb, but after you clean out the carb I'd double check that too.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 06-06-2006 12:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Yeah, my Edelcrap was supposed to come adjusted too. With the help of steve66, and another 75 bucks, it does OK. My next carb will definitly be Holley.

66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-06-2006 01:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
Was that extra $75 for the adjustment kit?

Does anyone have any good Edelbrock site links, for the ID of the different screws, like the float adj. screw.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 06-06-2006 01:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Rods, jets and springs.

68mustang351w
Gearhead

Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 06-06-2006 01:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68mustang351w        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66drop:
Does anyone have any good Edelbrock site links, for the ID of the different screws, like the float adj. screw.

No float adjustment screw, you have to take the top cover off and measure the drop of floats. Still got your manual around, it will really help in getting your carb set up right... David F.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 06-06-2006 03:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Yeah, the book explains it too good for me, I understand layman much better than tech any day.

------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement.

68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok

exlocal
Gearhead

Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 06-06-2006 09:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for exlocal        Reply w/Quote
Sorry, can't help you, but it reminded me of my friend's 55 Bowtie that would always break down. We literally rebuilt his Quadrajet on the side of the road many times. Seems it had a habit of getting clogged with dirt. Haven't seen him in years so maybe he switched to a Holley.

------------------
reliving youth

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 06-06-2006 09:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
When the car died, did it just quit, like shutting off a light switch?
Or did it start to sputter and gradually slow down?

You may have an ignition or coil problem.
You may have accumulated rust and dirt in your fuel system, which will only be cured by either flushing out the tank AND the fuel line, or replacing both. Remember, they may be 40 years old and time to change.

66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-06-2006 09:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
When the car died it just quietly shut off(like a light switch), no sputtering, coughing or anything.
The cleansing of my fuel system sound like a good idea to me can anyone explain that process.

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 06-06-2006 10:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66drop:
When the car died it just quietly shut off(like a light switch), no sputtering, coughing or anything.
The cleansing of my fuel system sound like a good idea to me can anyone explain that process.

Look at the front lower corner, passenger side, of the gas tank for a drain plug. Since its a 16 gallon tank, you can judge based on how full it is how many buckets you need to hold whatever comes out.
Raise the car, support it with jack stands.
put your first drain pan or bucket into position and then remove the drain plug.
Be prepared for gasoline to run down your arm and possibly splash in your eyes. Not a good thing.

While the tank is draining, disconnect the fuel line between the fender apron and the fuel pump, and disconnect it at the gas tank. You now have basically a huge steel straw from one end of the car to the other.
Use compressed air to blow from the front to the back. Be prepared for a large spray of nasty gasoline. If you catch it in a bucket you'll be able to evaluate how dirty or rusty the inside of the line is.
Then blow from the back to the front.
Reconnect the fuel line front and rear.

If the rubber connection hoses are questionable, replace them.
After the tank stops draining, you may want to leave the drain plug out and pour some clean gas in thru the filler neck and let it flush some more dirt out.

When done you can reinstall the drain plug and filter/strain your gasoline and put it back in. If it came out really clean, you're lucky, if its really dirty, don't bother putting it back in, get rid of it.
If you see little blobs rolling around in the bottom of the buckets, looks kind of like when vinegar and oil don't mix, those blobs are actually water. Don't let them back in the tank.


66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-06-2006 10:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the technique, this sounds like something I would love to do for my 'stang I just completed some schooling, so now i look forward to giving my drop some TLC.

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 06-06-2006 11:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
Automotive paint strainers work very well for filtering the gas if you plan to re-use it.

66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-08-2006 11:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
My 1st thought after my car cutt off was that maybe i picked up some junk from my gas tank. I let the level get a little low before i filled up to come home.
I think i'll pull the carb off, take it apart, blow it out and see if i see anything. I did this a couple of times with my 4100 is there anything special that i should be Carefull of when i take apart the Edelbrock 1403?

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 06-09-2006 12:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66drop:
blow it out and see if i see anything. I did this a couple of times with my 4100

How many times are you going to treat the symptom instead of the problem?
It is not normal as a part of routine maintenance to have to take the carb off and blow it out.
The first time it happened should have been the last time.
Clean out or replace your tank and fuel lines or the problem will keep occuring.

As far as your edelbrock carb, there is nothing special you need to worry about, its pretty basic in the way it comes apart and goes together.

66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-09-2006 01:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the heads up Scott But I want to be clear, which I might not have been, this problem hasn't happened to me before. There was a different issue I was having that prompted me to pull the 4100 a few times back in the days.
I was just trying to find out if there was something special/different with this Edelbrock form the 4100 that I should be on the look out for when cracking the Edelbrock. Thanks Scott, I can't wait to clean/drain my tank and blow out my lines--just to know for myself it has been done.

Stang28965
Gearhead

Posts: 551
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 06-09-2006 01:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stang28965        Reply w/Quote
Why not put on a in-line fuel filter?

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 06-09-2006 06:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 66drop:
I was just trying to find out if there was something special/different with this Edelbrock form the 4100 that I should be on the look out for when cracking the Edelbrock.
I can't wait to clean/drain my tank and blow out my lines--just to know for myself it has been done.

Since the Edelbrock is new, at least you won't have any corrosion to deal with. Everything should come apart easy, the top gasket should be in good condition to re-use. I guess one tricky part is the little 'S' shaped wire that connect to the accelerator pump slunger. If you have a polaroid or digital camera take a picture of which way it faces, that can be a confusing one to put back on. When you lift up the top plate the floats come off with it, so you'll be able to see into the bowls easily.
You'll be fine, good luck with it!

The gas tank and fuel line...what a nasty job, but you WILL experiece a wonderful peace-of-mind knowing its been done!

66drop
Gearhead

Posts: 192
From: Roseville Ca
Registered: Jul 2004

posted 06-10-2006 08:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66drop        Reply w/Quote
28965 an inline filter is a definate part of the plan. It was suggested right away by the guy who put the carb on. I just had not had time to do it yet--and look what happened. This may sound strange to some but if the carb or fuel lines are clogged because of some sort of sludge from the tank, that reminds me of "throwing an embolis", as in a stoke. Can that be? Did my stang have a stroke?

[This message has been edited by 66drop (edited 06-10-2006).]

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