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Author
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Topic: Headlights went out on a dark country road!
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 07:04 AM
 
Scared the crap out of me! Had high beams on for about 5 minutes & all the lights went out. Stopped, turned off high beam switch & lights came back on.
Any ideas what could cause that besides those damn 40 year old gremlins?------------------
66 GT350H clone
302, Holley 600, Tri-Y headers, Flowmasters, power front disc brakes.
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66HIPO&more
Gearhead Posts: 4244
From: SLC, UT
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-21-2006 07:21 AM
ALIENS!!!!
And I'm not kidding.
Happened to us last summer. And yes it does scare the Holey Crapola out of ya!
Our car only did that one time. Weird!
J.
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-21-2006 09:02 AM
Me too! No moon - no street lights. Pitch @ss black! I was clicking from high to low for an approaching car and they went completely out, two times. Turned the lights off and back on and there they were. Dimmer switch maybe?
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 09:20 AM
"No moon - no street lights. Pitch @ss black!"
You got that right!!!Dimmer switch WILL get replaced, along with the dash light switch when I get around to replacing the instrument cluster w/ Auto Meter gauges. A guy here thinks it might be a loose/bad ground wire...I figure I just won't use high beams for now.
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kinger44
Gearhead Posts: 376
From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 08-21-2006 10:14 AM
My bet would be the headlight switch. Mine did that last year too. When we rebuilt the car I got a repop and it hasn't happened since. However, if I tugged on the switch last year I could make it happen. I assume this may not be the same for you.Cheers, Gregg ------------------
68 coupe, red on black. Full restoration completed summer 2006. 347 stroker, 425 hp, 450 tq http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/kinger44.html
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70SportsRoof
Gearhead Posts: 1064
From: Orange County, CA
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 08-21-2006 11:17 AM
Prob headlight switch. Most of these switches have a circuit breaker in them that resets if you turn the lights off and then turn them back on. My '86 Mustang LX did the same thing if I ran with the highbeams on too long.------------------
Gary M
'70 Mustang 63B SportsRoof
'95 Mustang GT coupe
and 4 other classic Fords
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 351
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 11:35 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Blacksmith:
"No moon - no street lights. Pitch @ss black!"
You got that right!!!Dimmer switch WILL get replaced, along with the dash light switch when I get around to replacing the instrument cluster w/ Auto Meter gauges. A guy here thinks it might be a loose/bad ground wire...I figure I just won't use high beams for now.
Replacing the dimmer switch should be the right move.The wiring comes from the headlight switch through the dimmer and out to the headlights.After 40 years the contacts are probably worn and or sticky.
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beachbum
Gearhead Posts: 307
From: Florida
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 08-21-2006 11:46 AM
Remember many years ago when I was in the military stationed in New Mexico and a GI friend of mine and his girl friend were speeding down a desert road. Just as they were coming into a bend in the road she pushed off the headlight switch thinking she was pushing in the cigarette lighter. Being pitch dark they missed the bend in the road and went speeding off into the desert.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 12:19 PM
quote:
Originally posted by beachbum:
Being pitch dark they missed the bend in the road and went speeding off into the desert.
Good thing I know this road like the back of my hand.
Still scary as hell though.
Pretty sure there's a pucker mark in my wife's seat...
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zieber
Gearhead Posts: 172
From: Central Coast, CA, USA
Registered: Mar 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 12:25 PM
Mine started cycling on and off with a clicking noise that reminded me of a circuit breaker. Only did it the one time.
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66 fastback
Gearhead Posts: 223
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 08-21-2006 12:49 PM
More than likely it is the headlight switch. As said before it has a circuit breaker and in time it will get weak and cycle off and back on again. Since a dimmer switch is pretty cheap you might want to replace it as well just to be sure.By the way, check with your local auto parts stores, these items may not be in stock but can be ordered for you. My 66 needed a new headlight switch (Kem LS25) and the store had it for me overnight.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-21-2006 01:15 PM
Thanks for all the input.
New dimmer switch & pigtail harness & rubber cap now on order from Mustangs Unlimited, Along with some other goodies.Can hopefully get it & install it this coming weekend.
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gmliebau
Gearhead Posts: 691
From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 08-21-2006 03:42 PM
HEHE...a "pucker mark"!! That's classic!
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 08-21-2006 09:55 PM
99% sure the dimmer switch will NOT solve your problem.
Your headlight switch with the integrated circuit breaker is old, dirty, and worn out. Sometimes modern headlights like halogens are too much current draw and it pops the circuit.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-22-2006 12:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Scott H:
99% sure the dimmer switch will NOT solve your problem.
Your headlight switch with the integrated circuit breaker is old, dirty, and worn out. Sometimes modern headlights like halogens are too much current draw and it pops the circuit.
Guess I'll find out this weekend.
If it still does it, new headlight switch will be on order Monday morning... And I AM running Halogens.
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4800
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-22-2006 09:16 PM
Sorry I didn't see this post earlier. I'm thinking it is your headlight switch assembly. Mine you could actually time at 50 minutes, then it would cut off. When they cut off, you could sit for about 3 mins, and they'd cut back on. It's a ceramic fuse integral to the headlight switch. As it's used, the heat builds up and causes the fuse to trip. Since the lights are off, the fuse cools off, and then they come back on. I will also warn you, that if you have an early '66, you might need a switch for a '65. Ask me how I know!  See if the dashboard spacer is attached to the switch. If it is, you need the '65 switch. If it is a separate piece, you need the '66 switch. I must have ordered 3 of them before I figured out what was going on! Good luck!
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-23-2006 12:07 PM
quote:
Originally posted by GTRocks:
When they cut off, you could sit for about 3 mins, and they'd cut back on. It's a ceramic fuse integral to the headlight switch. As it's used, the heat builds up and causes the fuse to trip. Since the lights are off, the fuse cools off, and then they come back on. I will also warn you, that if you have an early '66, you might need a switch for a '65. Ask me how I know! See if the dashboard spacer is attached to the switch. If it is, you need the '65 switch. If it is a separate piece, you need the '66 switch. I must have ordered 3 of them before I figured out what was going on! Good luck!
The dash and headlights all came back on immediately after I hit the high beam switch to turn high beams off. Only cool down period was while I was standing on the brakes-which seemed like an eternity (while I praying Bambi didn't step out of the woods to see what was going on). May have had a whole 10 seconds to cool off.
I tend to agree with Joyce...ALIENS!!! I know Without a doubt I need a 65 switch if it turns out not to be the dimmer switch. Build date of Jan 6, 1965...EARLY 65 FB out of Dearborn.
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 08-23-2006 01:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Blacksmith:
... Build date of Jan 6, 1965...EARLY 65 FB out of Dearborn.
Actually, since they started building the 65's around March of 1964 you are about 1 year into the 18 month production run. I don't have the dates exact, but its approximately
March 1964 thru August 1964 for the 'early early' cars referred to as the 64 1/2.
Then September 1964 thru August 1965 would be the typical model year.
Followed by Sept 1965 starting the 1966 model year.
Again, the dates aren't exact, and there is usually some crossover period when the assembly is changing to the new models.
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GTRocks
Gearhead Posts: 4800
From: Lusby, MD
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 08-24-2006 01:29 PM
I think mine took about 30 secs to cool off. Then I was really puzzled when they clicked back on. My heart was still pounding in my chest! I crawled home from there at about 10 mph. Sure enough they cycled about 3 more times before we got to my buddy's house.I still lean toward that being your issue. Without any current running through there, it cools fairly quickly.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 08-28-2006 10:21 AM
Didn't get a chance to swap out the dimmer switch this past weekend. Now I won't be able to get to it till after Labor Day weekend.
I'll keep you'all posted on what good the swap does if anything.
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 08-29-2006 08:37 PM
Halogens have higher wattage? 40 yo wires have more resistance? Time for a headlight relay. Here is a link for DIY. Search the net and you'll find assembled units for a reasonable price. http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/headlights.htm
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 09-05-2006 11:08 AM
JohnZThanks for the link.
I'll look into that (never did like messing with electrical stuff though).
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 09-07-2006 10:22 AM
I'm going to chime in on this too with it being the headlight switch. If your halogens were on highbeam, it would have been heating up the headlight switch more than with lowbeams. When you switched off the highbeams it was enough to cool down the headlight switch and turn the lights back on. By the fact that you were able to switch between high beam and low beam indicates to me that the dimmer switch is working correctly.I too have had this problem with halogens, and will be going the relay route next time for the driver.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 09-14-2006 03:07 PM
This Winter I plan to replace the inst. cluster w/ new Auto Meter Gauges, I'll more than likely replace the hedlight switch while I'm in there.Until then, I'll just have to watch my night time driving...
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 09-18-2006 05:39 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Blacksmith:
JohnZThanks for the link.
I'll look into that (never did like messing with electrical stuff though).
I bought a kit from http://www.modernvintageauto.com/index_files/page0006.htm
It really was a plug and play deal, very easy and excellent instructions. (Why are the instructions always good when the mod is simple and the instructions suck for complicated mods?) Send the guy an email and say you are a member of the Vintage Mustang Forum and he may knock off $10.
With shipping I paid $42.
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 09-19-2006 02:14 PM
John Z,
Thanks. I'll look into re-wiring the headlights with his kit this winter.I had considered a Painless wiring harness, but I'm not ready to gut the car just yet...Eventuially.
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 09-19-2006 05:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Blacksmith:
John Z,
Thanks. I'll look into re-wiring the headlights with his kit this winter.I had considered a Painless wiring harness, but I'm not ready to gut the car just yet...Eventuially.
If you're even thinking about a complete rewire you will not have any problem with the kit I used. Any car events in your area in October? I like to take the car for a weekend trip in the fall before she goes to bed for the winter and Front Royal is about the right distance.
[This message has been edited by John Z (edited 09-19-2006).]
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 09-25-2006 12:04 PM
Sat. Oct. 14'th on the Loudoun Street Mall in Winchester, Sponsored by Shenandoah Valley Mustang Club.
9-11am registration, Show 10am-3pm
$6.00 registration, dash plaques for 1'st 100
Rain date Oct. 21'st.I plan on going. Probably my last show of the year. ------------------
66 GT350H clone
302, Holley 600, Tri-Y headers, Flowmasters, power front disc brakes.
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 09-29-2006 03:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Blacksmith:
Sat. Oct. 14'th on the Loudoun Street Mall in Winchester, Sponsored by Shenandoah Valley Mustang Club.
9-11am registration, Show 10am-3pm
$6.00 registration, dash plaques for 1'st 100
Rain date Oct. 21'st.I plan on going. Probably my last show of the year.
Sent email let me know if you didn't get it.
Thanks
John
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Aussie XAXB
Gearhead Posts: 131
From: North Olmsted, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 09-30-2006 10:05 PM
That is just plain scary!! Happened to me once in a 1979 F-150, headlights went out, thank god I had put on auxilery driving lights. Funny thing is it never happened again. Still don't know what caused it.Glad you came through ok. Steve ------------------
My Mad Max Interceptor Project http://xaxbinterceptor.tripod.com Wife's 1966 Mustang Site http://purplestang66.tripod.com My Custom Part Site http://www.artisticmachine.com
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Blacksmith
Gearhead Posts: 604
From: Front Royal, Va., USA
Registered: Feb 2006
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posted 10-02-2006 12:15 PM
Steve,
Good thing I know the road like the back of my hand.Much worse was almost getting a 6-point buck Fri. before last with the Stang at around 70mph. Found out that the disc/drum proportioning valve is adjusted right. Stood on the brake pedal & the nose dropped immediately. I think I left 2 sets of skid marks though...
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FSTBK65
Gearhead Posts: 483
From: Salem, Virginia 24153
Registered: May 2004
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posted 10-20-2006 11:50 PM
I was coming home from the track tonight and its about a 45 min ride. I had the low beams on and the lights started flashing.
Pretty scary on the interstate.
i could turn the lights off for a few seconds and then they would work for a while and then flicker again. I think I am going to try one of the relay kits. ------------------
65 fastback. 302, Paxton Supercharger 7PSI, Edelbrock heads and intake,flowtechs with cutouts, x pipe and 2.5in flows. 4 speed. 449rwhp and 410ft lbs through the mufflers on 93 octane. 8.01 @ 87.72 mph 1/8 mi, 1.78 60ft. (new times coming soon...)
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