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Author
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Topic: Voltage issue?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-19-2006 12:41 AM
 
The last few times I've had my car out. When I go to start it after it's been ran. It'll start and idle great but the volts stay down around 12v. When they usally go to 14v and stay at all the time. I'm using a 100amp power master one wire alt. I know it needs to be rev'd to kick it in. I'll do that and nothing changes. Now for the really odd part. Once I start driving I'll smell rubber burning it's not real strong but it's there the whole time. The volts stay low around 12v. Then for no reason they will kick up to 14v,and stay there. The smell goes away and all seems fine?
The car has done this the last three times I've had it out. And only after it's already it sits a for some time. It will not do it on a morning fresh cold start?I'm thinking the smell is the fan belt? But why? Is the belt old,is the alt freezing up? ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 09-19-2006 11:55 AM
That is wierd  Is the battery discharging, or is it just that the gauge is dancing around? About the burning rubber smell... I was running a one wire alt a while back. They don't like rpms because I cooked two of them  They were cheap-o Napa remans however, so I'd imagine your powermaster is of much better durability. Anyway, just before the alt failed I too smelled rubber. The alt never locked up though. The brushes housing at the back of the armature broke. Where the rubber smell came from I have no idea ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" 12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;) All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-19-2006 01:05 PM
The battery doesn't seem to be discharging at all. The gauge doesn't dance or bounce around either. It's just nice and steady at 12-12.5 then will move up to 13.5-14.5 were it will stay once then the smell goes away too?
When it's started cold it will move to 14 and stay there. It's only re-starting it it'll sta around 12 and get the burning rubber smell?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 09-19-2006 01:31 PM
Ron, just a thought, but pop the hood when it does this and give it gas manually. Then you can make sure the alternator is doing it's job, and see if the belt is slipping. Also, feel the wire to make sure it's not getting hot. Maybe you can at least find out where the smell is coming from. Hope you figure it out soon.------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-19-2006 06:57 PM
Ok, I went and got a new fan belt. I also replaced the relay on the electric fan. Some thing worked? Because I couldn't get it to do it again. Now I only ran it to temp. Let it sit for a short time.And re-started it voltage was at 12v at idle once rev'd jumped to 14 right where it shoule be. Did it twice in row.
The old belt was glazed but not cracked. Could the old belt just have been slipping? maybe because of the extra load on the alt from the fan coming on?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 351
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 09-19-2006 10:39 PM
Ron, I went through this not to long ago.It could be just a slipping belt, but if it happens again check the alternator bearings.Mine would sieze up intermittently and then work fine....until the alternator locked up. 
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-19-2006 10:52 PM
Thanks Mark that would make more sense to me. I'd hate to have to replace the alternator.
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-28-2006 03:53 PM
Yesterday the inline fuse for my electric melted. It seems that the fuse was either bad,or ??? but it just started to smoke real bad and melted the plastic case it was in. The fuse was melted to the plastic hosuing too?
I replaced the inline fuse and holder with a new unit. It seems to working better then ever now?
Maybe that was the burning smell all along?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 351
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 09-28-2006 05:23 PM
Might have been a bad connection at the inline fuse holder. Most of the ones I've seen are pretty cheap.Did the fuse actually blow or did the holder just melt?
Recheck the wiring schematic for your electric fan to make sure the relay is wired in correctly. The relay should help with the amperage draw when the fan kicks in.Check to make sure the fuse is the correct amperage also, ideally the fuse should blow before stuff melts. 
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-28-2006 05:43 PM
It doesn't look like the fuse blew?
Looks to have just melted,then melt the fuse holder. I did re-check all the wiring yesterday. The fan seems to working just fine?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64 [This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 09-28-2006).]
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 351
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 09-28-2006 05:51 PM
Most likely a bad fuse holder or connection. Hope it doesn't happen again!
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-28-2006 05:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Ugrich:
Most likely a bad fuse holder or connection. Hope it doesn't happen again!
Yeah you and me both,now every time I stop I get out and check on it. Thanks ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 918
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-28-2006 08:34 PM
Funny you shoud say that. I have had a lot of problems with alternators over the years. I could buy what I thought was a good one and the dam thing would suddenly fail after a few months. I used to go out and check the voltage every week just to make sure it was working.I gave up and bought a new late model 130amp and have never had a problem since. It took me a while to get over checking it though!  I have a feeling that the alternators were giving up because of the daily 6000+rpm. It is just my guess but they might have survived with a slightly larger pulley. quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Yeah you and me both,now every time I stop I get out and check on it. Thanks
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-28-2006 09:23 PM
Did you have problems with the power master brand?------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 918
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-29-2006 02:21 PM
Not specifically. The last one I used was the one sold at Jegs. I think it was called Tuff Stuff and the 100 amp version. I rebuilt it after it failed and can't fault the materials. They looked heavy duty. Much better than the kit I used to rebuild it. Not that it lasted long either.The late model style was probably the right decision anyway because of the higher low rpm amps. I have a lot of draw and I probably would have needed to switch now if I hadn't earlier.
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
Did you have problems with the power master brand?
[This message has been edited by JAAZZY (edited 09-29-2006).]
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