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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
  68 WIth Early Side Marker Lites

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Author Topic:   68 WIth Early Side Marker Lites
mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-23-2006 02:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
Putting early lites, frames and indent on a 68 cpe with later 1/4's. Sometime early in it's past it took a rear end hit.. has no lite reflectors. Need measurement from rear corner of frame to top peak and from the front of frame to top. I get 10.5" rear, and 11" front. Also from the rear of frame to indent where bumper is. These are the ones I got from seller. Just want to make sure it's corrrect. Made a pattern and taped it on-doesnt' look right. Appreciate any help.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 09-23-2006 11:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
I'm getting 10 3/4 back, 11 1/2 in front, same on both sides. It's 1" on the last measurement.

EDIT: I went up from the top of the reflector, to the top of the qtr with my measurements.

------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831

68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok

[This message has been edited by 68 Coop (edited 09-23-2006).]

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-24-2006 06:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the info-what you gave sounds good.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 09-24-2006 09:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Glad to help .

68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 09-27-2006 07:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT        Reply w/Quote
I got 10 ¾” at the front, 10” at the back and 7/8” from the back edge with the end cars off. This is off my coupe and it’s from San Jose. I’m sure there are variations between where the car was built as well as when.

I just measure the right side and get the same thing but the top to back corner I get 10 1/4”. This car still has all of its original welded in panels and they are straight.
SB clutch fork question


------------------
Ed S.

68 S-code FB GT 4spd(now C6)/3.25 PS PDB
68 J-code Cp Sprint"B" C4/3L00-9" PDB PS AC (now toploader with 3.70 Traction Loc & 2.5" rear drums)
99 F150 XLT Ext/cab, 4X4, 5.4L, 3L55

[This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 09-27-2006).]

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 09-28-2006 08:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
Finished the job yesterday. Funny how the measurements varied. Mine came out to 11 1/8" front and 10 3/8" rear. As a guide leveled car by raising rear, using a level on RP mldgs. Made a manila folder template of frame, keeping it level. Had some pics of new 68's actual photos for an approximation at rear. A lot of measuring before coming up with those. To be picky, the rear measure is about 13/16" a shade over 3/4" Put mounting tab holes for frame on the template also.

This "mod" was done on a painted car! If it hadn't, would have welded the inserts in. Grin ding surfaces to get adhesive, roughed up the inner edges with 36 grit followed by an "etch" with a hollow ground brokern drill bit. This REALLY roughs up the metal.

Finished it off on the inside and it came out well. Too long for an extended how to but it is a challenge with a painted car. Anyone having to do it, will be glad to explain in greater detail.

BTW: For adhesive used 3 2tube pacs of JB Weld at 4.00 per pac. It rivals Fuzor and is easy to use. Used the regular slow set stuff-feel that's the best. Tightened the piece to inside by attaching the frame and deawing it in. Left them to cure for 24 hrs.

All times are ET (US)

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