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Author
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Topic: right combonation performance parts
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-26-2006 11:22 PM
 
Hello, just picked up a 65 mustang, going to swap out the I6 for a 302. The car came with the wrong I6 as it has mechanical lifters and a burnt intake valve. So since I have to replace it I figured I would swap for a 302.Now the 302 is from an 85 from a ford econoline van, the casting numbers read D9AE-6015-ED 15 for the block, RF E1AE-9425-FA intake manifold and E5TE-94918-A exhaust manifold. I want to repkace the stock intake manifold and 2 barrel carb. I have spare parts donated from big brother edelbrock torker twisted intake, I have a holley 750cfm and a holley 600cfm, I also have a factory ford 4 barrel aluminum intake manifold that can be installed. I want to install headers and a HEI distributor the one wire conversion that I heard was easy to install and maintain. Which carb/intake combo will work the best?
The cam is stock. This is a low budget project vehicle as the name says its my wifes. The 302 came with a C6 tranny.
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-27-2006 02:18 AM
It appears that I may have a 351 engine.
Dist number E4TE-12131-8A
Flywheel is 164 tooth
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 09-27-2006 05:03 AM
quote:
Originally posted by wifes65:
Hello, just picked up a 65 mustang, going to swap out the I6 for a 302. The car came with the wrong I6 as it has mechanical lifters and a burnt intake valve. So since I have to replace it I figured I would swap for a 302.Now the 302 is from an 85 from a ford econoline van, the casting numbers read D9AE-6015-ED 15 for the block, RF E1AE-9425-FA intake manifold and E5TE-94918-A exhaust manifold. I want to repkace the stock intake manifold and 2 barrel carb. I have spare parts donated from big brother edelbrock torker twisted intake, I have a holley 750cfm and a holley 600cfm, I also have a factory ford 4 barrel aluminum intake manifold that can be installed. I want to install headers and a HEI distributor the one wire conversion that I heard was easy to install and maintain. Which carb/intake combo will work the best?
The cam is stock. This is a low budget project vehicle as the name says its my wifes. The 302 came with a C6 tranny.
You will have to upgrade the suspension to 5 lug if it's not already, and/or you will have to get stiffer coils for the extra weight.Headers should be easy enough, and you can keep your stock distributor and get a Pertronix unit. 2 wires and you're done. I would go with the 650cfm and aluminum intake. These are my choices, someone else will chime in with theirs or better advice on the intakes, and take it from there. Welcome to M&M by the way. ------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 09-27-2006 06:24 AM
If you can, get a C4 or T5, they can take more HP/abuse  .------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 09-27-2006 07:44 AM
Well first off-- not sure whether its a 351 or a 302-- but the block is an 79 the intake is an 81 and the manifold is an 85. I'm not sure there is a big visual difference between the 302 and the 351 except the 351 has a 1 in higher deck--- I can tell you it fills the 65 engine bay much tighter than a 302.
With a 302 you don't need to replace the springs--- I still run my I6 springs on my 65 just because I like the look. Though speed bumps are tough but the look is worth it.Its not just a pull in pull out deal.
You'll need new:
Motor Mounts
Radiator/Hoses
Drag Link
Idler arm
Inner/Outer Tie Rods
Pitman Arm
And of course brakes--
You should upgrade the rear end to an 8in as well. Thats just stuff that comes to mind-- little wiring things and fuel lines etc is a need to do as well. Flowtech makes good cheap headers--Edelbrock RPM is a pretty cheap intake and they're 600 cfm carb has been trouble free for me on my 302 as well. Maybe even the 500 not sure? If you go with a T-5 you'll need another crossmember--- and depending on what yours is now if its a manual (2.77) you'll still need another crossmember a your driveshaft shortened possibly. Do a search on 65 I6 to 289 and plenty should come up on google.
Good luck and welcome to M&M. Luke
Oops didn't read you had all that stuff all ready --- I would think the 750 would be too much. As far as the intake goes-- I still dunno.
[This message has been edited by Mooney (edited 09-27-2006).]
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 09-27-2006 10:14 AM
quote:
Originally posted by wifes65:
Which carb/intake combo will work the best?
Well, since you didn't say you were planning to freshen/re-build the 302 I guess I should assume you will simply bolt it in as is. You mentioned that the 302 came with a C-6 (a fairly heavy duty transmission to use in a tame Mustang), however, you didn't mention if you were planning to use it or not - I guess I'll assume you are planning to use it. The ONLY question you asked was regarding which carb/intake combo to use from those parts you listed. SO,,,,I'd suggest you go with the 600cfm and the Ford aluminum intake, considering a 21-yr old, tired, stock 302 out of a van that will also get headers and a HEI ignition. Since you stated that, "This is a low budget project vehicle...", you may want to re-evaluate your decision to go to the van 302/C6 combo based on the points that Luke listed. To perform all the highly-recommended I6-to-V8 upgrades, may require more $$ than what your "low budget" is prepared to handle - and NO ONE likes to start such a project & not be able to finish it. You may want to consider locating a good-running I6 or a rebuilt I6 to install. I'm sure a warmed-over 250-cu.in. 6-cylinder with headers, a Duraspark ignition and a C-4 would still be fun and likely less costly, more economical to operate & more user-friendly for your wife - Oops,  sorry, you didn't ask for an opinion regarding project cost or drivability. So what makes you think that the I6 in it is the "wrong I6"...? Good Luck!
Ryan
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-27-2006 12:40 PM
Yes I plan on using the 302/C6, Low budget is using the donated parts if the engine is a 302. The suspension parts need to be replace due ti age so it will be upgraded also. The I6 has mechnaical lifters and ford switch to hydralic lifters in 64, so that would pretty much leads me to think it is the wrong I6.
I am changing the intake becuase of the EGR port and I would like a clearner look then just covering it up and the carb is a two barrel and the donated intakes are 4 barrels.
This is an 18 month project, so about every three months a different system will be worked on. The engine is first because the parts were readily available. The front suspension is next to include brakes.
The rear suspension and rearend is after that and last will be the interior and paint.
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-27-2006 12:57 PM
The car has a C4 tranny right now. I have also on order engine mounts and the frame mounts. The engine will have new gaskets installed all around and more may be done if need be after it is broken down to replace the head gasket and oil pan gasket.
The engine was running when removed two weeks ago and did not burn oil. The water jackets show no rust or scale deposits. The back of the valves are clean but more to tell when the heads are removed.
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-27-2006 06:28 PM
one other note is in the oil valley the numbers 351 is cast, I was told that means the block is a 351?
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-27-2006 10:56 PM
After talking with local mustang expert I am 95 percent sure engine is a 351 and not 302, base on intake manifold being about 11.5 inches wide, and other physical demension that he told me to look for. So change of plans as donated parts wont work except for maybe carbs.
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-28-2006 02:22 AM
Firing order for engine is 13725648 according to dist. cap.
The heads are coming off this weekend. That should reveal a little more detail. or donated parts will be here friday, that will be the final sign of a 302 or 351.Thanks for all the help
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 09-28-2006 07:36 AM
If it does turn out to be a 351, I saw some stuff in the classifieds a little while ago for sale, and I think there was a couple of intakes on there. Try over there if you don't have anything lined up.------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-28-2006 10:05 PM
pulled cylinder heads off. casting number is E5AE CA.
Engine is pretty clean. No ridges, flat top piston. The pistons have .020 stamped on the top. does that mean the motor has been bored out?
Going to refresh gaskets and put it back together.Thanks
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 09-29-2006 10:02 AM
quote:
Originally posted by wifes65:
The pistons have .020 stamped on the top. does that mean the motor has been bored out?
The piston stamping indicates that they are 0.020" oversize from OEM. So, yep, sounds like the engine was once bored 0.020" oversize in it's past. Depending on the amount of bore wear, your machine shop dude should be able to tell you if it'll still clean up to use 0.030" pistons without a problem... Depending on available $$, condition, etc. you may want to switch out those E5AE CA cylinder heads for some better heads though.... Good Luck!
Ryan 
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-29-2006 11:26 AM
It is a 351 motor. The motor didnt burn oil and there is no ridge so, if the bottom end looks clean when I removed the oil pan, I am just going to replace the gaskets and seal and drop it in with the C6 tranny. The engine is a ford rebuilt, just cant coonfirm the date of the rebuild or mileage. No carbon build up on the piston or the head chamber. No carbon or sludge deposit or varnish in the lifter valley. I think the 351 with just a intake, carb and headers should be enough for the misses for now. Should i go with a 2 barrel or 4 barrel intake?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-29-2006 04:15 PM
Go with a nice 4v intake and a 600vs carb and headers. I ran that set up for years on an all stock 351w in my 65. It never let me down and was a lot of fun. ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-30-2006 12:37 AM
Fastymz what distributor are you using?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-30-2006 01:29 PM
Right now I have an MSD dist,I orginally used a stock dist with the pertronix upgrade,then I had a Duraspark dist and ign box from the junk yard. Thats a great system for little money. I have a 351w stock dist do you need one???------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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wifes65
Journeyman Posts: 36
From:
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted 09-30-2006 04:12 PM
I just picked up a HEI dist. ONe of thos eonw wire conversion type. I didnt want to mess with wiring up the current dist. and didnt want to do the junk yard thing. The HEI has adjustable advance which i read somewhere as being a good to have.How hard where the headers to put on? Should I mount them before installing the engine or after? I have shorty headers. I haveent decided on an exhaust yet, any advice on type of exhaust to run?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-30-2006 04:50 PM
The headers are a pain, not a hard job just a pain. 
Install the motor first,but leave the motor to frame mount bolt loose. Jack the front end up as high as you can. You'll need to lift the motor up alittle to get the headers in from the under the car.I have short fat hands so I found it more easy to remove the valve covers to get to the header bolts. Start all the bolt before you tighten any of them. The shortys go in real easy and fit good. At least the heddmen shortys I had did. Go with a good high flow muffler of your choice and 2.5" pipes. I used flowmasters in the pass but really like the new magnaflows I have now better. More quite at idle and more BITE at WOT. ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64 [This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 09-30-2006).]
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