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Author
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Topic: cowl fix like this?
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-04-2006 01:13 PM
 
Any one done the fix this way?http://personal.ecu.edu/boydd/tech/cowl/cowl.html Looking to get a mig/welder and thought that it may pay off on this project someday as well as floor pans. Maybe I will learn body work  Richard.
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rmousir
'66 Mustang Coupe
Ford Blue & white stripes
95 roller 302, C4 Auto
Offy 360 intake & Holley 4 bl carb
grab-a-track 620s, 4.5 leafs, 1.25" drop blocks
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-04-2006 01:22 PM
Better be able to do some smooth butt welding if you go that route over drilling out the spot welds.I like the idea of being able to not have any seams, as well as being able to spray body color on the inside of the cowl before welding it back up.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-04-2006 01:36 PM
Thanks. Just looking at if I can take on the body work and what the hard parts will be. I think it may snowball..... You know things like... Well I did the floor pans.. Then I did the cowls. figured I could do the quarters, then painted... etc. etc.Could I grind down any bumpy welds to smooth it out?
Richard.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-04-2006 03:29 PM
Of course. I think the issue though is warpage of the panel, not necessarily the weld itself. For me, starting to weld, even though it means a lot more work, I'd rather start with filling in spot welds in an area that won't be seen, than butt welding a continuous seam that is in a highly visible area of the car. Not me, but I would like to do this... http://mywebpages.comcast.net/gturner51/Cowl_Vent.htm
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-04-2006 05:32 PM
That cowl thing is something that i have thought of doing. I am a little nervous of that becaues if I do that then I will take it all the way. Not sure I want to open that ball of wax.I have always said that next fall I would just take it to the body shop and have them do the job. Get it back the following spring and put the interior together. Just not sure. I have really enjoyed what I have done with the car and the satisfaction of doing it my self. But I really want the car to look good. I can alway close the hood.  Richard.
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trashline
Gearhead Posts: 2230
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 10-04-2006 05:53 PM
I would do the floors first. If you never welded before, practice alot. And do the butt welding on the floor replacement panals. It is nice you just have to move around and warpage will be to a minimum. and take your time.------------------
06 Chebby cobalt SS
88 thunderbird TC 2.3L
Gillis at 18 psi, walbro fuel pump, Kirban afpr, 3.73 8.8" rear, rebuilt head, Ranger roller, .48/.60 T3 with clipped wheel, ported elbow, 3 in exhuast, FMIC 66 mustang V8 swap baby 68 Fairlane 289 w/ auto
rusting away motor is going in the mustang
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 10-04-2006 06:04 PM
I've done cowls both ways, and I prefer the end patch / butt weld method.Eastwood makes a handy set of clamps that hold the metal edges flush in height yet gapped just enough to run a small mig bead. Like was already said, skip around and don't rush it and you'll avoid the heat build up that could hopelessly warp those panels.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-04-2006 06:07 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Scott H:
I've done cowls both ways, and I prefer the end patch / butt weld method.
Scott, Good to hear from you.... When you say the end patch are you referring to the method I posted? Richard.
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Darryl Eichenlaub
Gearhead Posts: 124
From: Buckley,Wa.
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted 10-05-2006 04:38 AM
I like the method of removing the whole cowl for these reasons, 1) Plug welding the spot welds is a lot easier than butt welding. 2) Less chance of warpage in plug welding. 3) You can clean up and seal the whole cowl area with it removed.I read an artical in a mag on how they removed the cowl just like normal, after cutting out the rust they glued the repair panels in and then glued the cowl back on. At first I thought what a joke, but after talking to a couple pros, The bonding process as come a long way, the body shops like it because less chance of collateral damage ( stuff burning up ) and it was faster. One of these days I'll have to try it out. But for someone without welding experance maybe something to check out? ------------------
Darryl Eichenlaub
1965 Mustang Coupe restomod 289,c4,body and interior mods.
1956 F-100 460,c6,9" major body mods, on going project.
1967 Mustang Fastback, father/son project 5.0,5spd,9".
1975 F250 4x4 Highboy 390,4spd,35",custom paint.
2002 Mustang v6,5spd, daughters college ride.
2001 Ford Escape, Wifes grocery getter.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-05-2006 07:42 AM
Have also done the repair both ways. Have even seen a tacky job done in an MMonthly how to article. They left the AC in. Maybe more difficult to take out but it reveals hidden areas. For the most part, I'd rather tackle it from below than splice it in like shown. If the rotted area is mainly the bottom of cowl it can be done. Opening up just the end, under the fender, a decent end repair from there and the bottom can be done.But....in bad cases, and it can be determined when the underdash area is properly cleared out, it is probably better to do the top removal. A downside to NOT clearing out under the dash is the possibility that the center part has rust. My 66 cv had just that. Did the removal on a 66 cv that was REALLY bad! Upon removing the top, discovered that the pillars had received a treatment of steelwool and bondo. Had to scab in 2/3 of the pillars. Finding out that the curved part of the pillar, next to dash, is rotten is not uncommon, It is probably an easier repair on a cv ie access. There are some good how to's on line. Also, if you have a 67, believe that Dynacorn makes a whole new cowl. Maybe Sig can chime in as he has knowledge on this co.
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bonfire
Journeyman Posts: 45
From:
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 10-06-2006 04:44 PM
I drilled the spot welds on mine. It was quite a task requiring much patience. I've replaced the rusted lower portion (butt welding some of it. and sealed and painted the lower cowl as well as the bottom of the upper cowl. I still have to weld the spot welded piece back on but I stripped all the paint off of it while I had it off and even that took some time getting in all those nooks and crannies. Butt welding is much more difficult as you have to be very precise with your fit and careful not to burn through on the thin metal. I tackled this after fllor pans, rear wheel wells, trunk drop offs and 1/4 panels. Get a good welder with shielding gas. and start cutting or drilling as you see fit.Bill
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-12-2006 10:28 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Darryl Eichenlaub:
I read an artical in a mag on how they removed the cowl just like normal, after cutting out the rust they glued the repair panels in and then glued the cowl back on. At first I thought what a joke, but after talking to a couple pros, The bonding process as come a long way, the body shops like it because less chance of collateral damage ( stuff burning up ) and it was faster. One of these days I'll have to try it out. But for someone without welding experance maybe something to check out?
I used the epoxy on some patch panels on the bed of my F-150, over the wheels. It worked great. I had to buy a special gun, kind of like a caulking gun but it is set up for two canisters since the glue is epoxy, and mixes as you lay it in place. I flanged the side of the bad, laid cut the patch to fit in the flange, and then ground off the paint on both pieces so the epoxy went directly to metal. What I really liked about this is that on my truck, there is no way to paint the weld for this repair on the back, so they often tend to rust out again, whereas with the glue, I don't have that problem. In testing, they have found that the epoxy is just as strong as welding, and in a shear fatigue test, the metal around the epoxy seam separated before the epoxy seam itself could, ie, once the epoxy is cured, you can't pull that seam apart without destroying the metal around it. I'd be very open to using the epoxy to reseal the cowl after doing this type of repair.
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