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Author
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Topic: Head Bolt and Block Color
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 11-26-2006 09:35 AM
 
I was about to put my aluminum heads on; realized that I didn't really want to use blue head bolts. The blocks blue which this would be the perfect time to repaint since everythings off of it. I could paint it black since it is 65-- which color black is the right color? But I'm curious would black bolts look funny too? The only thing I could thing of was silver-- but I'm not even sure how that would look, what would ya'll do?Luke
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Ugly 68
Journeyman Posts: 8
From: Las Vegas
Registered: Nov 2006
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posted 11-26-2006 11:09 AM
I would go Semi gloss black on the block and if you are keeping the heads natural aluminum then cadmium or silver bolts on the heads.
Either way you go having a nice clean engine bay is always nice  ------------------
Show And Go Association
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-26-2006 11:48 AM
Duplicolor has a very nice semi gloss black engine enamel.------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 11-26-2006 01:42 PM
Cool, guess its time to pick up some newspaper and a roll of tape and get to work then. Thanks for the suggestions ya'll.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-26-2006 05:49 PM
Luke, Regardless what you do with your bolts, you may not want to simply leave your aluminum heads without ANY protection. If you don't put paint on the heads, consider to put an aluminum or clear on them - otherwise if left uncoated, they will likely oxidize and develop an uccky chalky after a while...... Ryan
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 11-26-2006 08:36 PM
Thats a good idea; I noticed that with my aluminum water pump; what do you suggest using to clear it? I could probably get one of the painters at work to lay down a coat of clear on both the heads and the water pump. But not sure how well that would hold up to the heat and such-- any suggestions?Thanks,
Luke
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-27-2006 08:37 AM
I like this stuff, from one of M&Ms sponsors located at the top of the page:http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=619&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=400&iSubCat=404&iProductID=619 However, if you were going to rebuild/strip down your aluminum heads, then I'd suggest you look into a clear powdercoat. Reason being you'd likely need to strip down the heads is because the valve seals may not like going through the powdercoat curing oven.  Ryan
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 11-27-2006 09:10 AM
Awesome Ryan, appreciate the link and the suggestion. I think I'll just order the spray bomb stuff and see how it looks. The heads are brand new, so no worries on them but my waterpump, what do you suggest using to clean it up a bit as its gotten a lil chalky since being on the car.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-27-2006 01:47 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mooney:
.... but my waterpump, what do you suggest using to clean it up a bit as its gotten a lil chalky since being on the car.
Luke, I've used this with success: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=467&iSubCat=473&iProductID=258 1. Locate an old/cheap,but clean paint brush and cut back the bristles to make them short & stiff.
2. Locate some water-proof gloves.
3. Buy two or three gallons of DISTILLED water. The METAL WASH comes as a dry powder and will make ~2.5 gallons of solution. Mix it at the ratio in the directions with VERY HOT DISTILLED WATER, in a ventilated area. The reason for using distilled water to make the cleaning solution is because if you use well or hard water, it can leave your part stained or discolored. I bought distilled water @ $1.10/gallon from the grocery store and then heated it up in a large plastic bowl in the microwave. I also did the same for the rinse water. Now with the short bristled brush and hot solution give that H2O pump a good scrubbing! Drain & shake off the excess water, then (still wearing the gloves) blow it off with an air hose or fan and place it in the sunshine to get it super-dry... the clean gloves will prevent you from leaving any finger prints on the just-cleaned surfaces to be clear-coated. Good Luck!
Ryan
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-27-2006 02:00 PM
One other idea,,,, since you're only talking about cleaning the oxidation off of one aluminum water pump, you could probably get the same result with less hassle by just using some store-boughten oven cleaner on it. Just follow the directions, wear gloves and use the brush and it would likely clean up just fine. Rinse, dry and clear-coat...... Ryan
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 2357
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 11-28-2006 02:27 PM
Ryan, thanks for all the information and suggestions. I think I'll give the oven cleaner a try. If not then I'll order the metal wash. Again, appreciate your help.Luke
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-28-2006 02:41 PM
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