|
Author
|
Topic: ? Painting when it's below 35*F....?
|
Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
|
posted 12-01-2006 04:10 PM
 
... has anyone done it?
If so, did it come out OK? I'm no paint & body guy, but it seems to me that other than maybe taking a DAY OR TWO to dry, why not?
Around here this time of year, there are no bugs to land on it, there isn't nearly the dust, so if I can allow for the extra drying time, why not? I'm not talking about fancy two-part paints or any clear coats; I'm thinking of your standard acrylic enamel, poly urethane or oil-based enamel paints. Thanks in advance for any imput/thoughts/opinions! Ryan 
|
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
|
posted 12-01-2006 05:55 PM
Don't do it, at those temperatures paint doesn't atomize worth crap and it will be all orange peel and runs.I think 65 is the lowest you can safely go. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL
|
SkinnyMan
Gearhead Posts: 916
From: Tupelo, MS - USA (CA temporarily)
Registered: Jan 2005
|
posted 12-01-2006 05:55 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
... has anyone done it?
If so, did it come out OK? I'm no paint & body guy, but it seems to me that other than maybe taking a DAY OR TWO to dry, why not?
Around here this time of year, there are no bugs to land on it, there isn't nearly the dust, so if I can allow for the extra drying time, why not? I'm not talking about fancy two-part paints or any clear coats; I'm thinking of your standard acrylic enamel, poly urethane or oil-based enamel paints. Thanks in advance for any imput/thoughts/opinions! Ryan
Ryan,Don't know the technical reasons, but that's the reason all those paint shops are heated. Does the can or supplier have any recommendations? ------------------
SkinnyMan
Tupelo, MS Thank you, Thank you very much!
|
Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
|
posted 12-01-2006 06:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
...at those temperatures paint doesn't atomize worth crap and it will be all orange peel and runs.
Ok, the lack of atomization or bigger droplets of paint due to the cold temps makes sense. However, I'm thinking of rolling and brushing it on...so atomization isn't an issue. Yeah, I'm talking about painting my race car hauler/trailer. So, I'm really not so concerned about getting a smooth finish as I am about it how well it would adhere or bond to the cold metal. I guess what I'm asking if it would bond and seal as well as if it was 70*F to 90*F. I can live with some orange peel and runs on the hauler. quote:
Originally posted by SkinnyMan:
Does the can or supplier have any recommendations?
Sure, the paint manufacturer says, "For best results, do not apply paint below 60*F." But they don't say what will happen if I do.... Ryan
|
kenseth17
Journeyman Posts: 71
From: Green Bay, WI
Registered: Aug 2005
|
posted 12-02-2006 11:41 AM
If it is an activated paint, then there is a reason the manufacture puts the recommendation to stay above 60 degrees. The activator needs a certain temp to crosslink and the paint to cure. 2k urethane and epoxy you need to stay above the 55-60 degree temp and be able to maintain it for several hours. It is possible for the paint to go dormant if falling below temp and never cure later. The cure will be slow at the lower range of temp and epoxys are a slow curing product anyways. If it is an enamel or lacquer paint it is not as critical cause these are air drying products. I think they would just stay sticky for quite awhile till it warms up. But I think if you add activator to enamel to make it more like a urethane, you would still want to maintain your temps, or the advantages of activating may go out the window, not sure. The most important temp is the temp of the surface you are painting. Just cause it is 60 in the garage, doesn't mean the cars surface has warmed up to that yet.------------------
http://victorylap.50webs.com
auto body repair at reasonable prices
|
68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 12-02-2006 12:25 PM
Don't use the poly at those temps because I think the curing process halts at something like 50 Deg.
|
Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
|
posted 12-02-2006 05:20 PM
kenseth17 & 68 S-code GT, Thanks guys for the additional information; those were the tid-bits of knowledge that I was looking for. Sounds like - maybe - if I only go with, "If it is an enamel or lacquer paint it is not as critical cause these are air drying products." I may be maybe-ok to lay it down......or I may need to re-think this and simply hold off until warmer Spring weather...... Thanks again, Fellas!
Ryan
|
Bulldog66
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: Lake City, Fl.
Registered: Nov 2006
|
posted 12-02-2006 05:44 PM
Some good info. Not like I'll be painting in those temps. I'd have to time it right to find those temps in Florida anyway  ------------------
66' A code 289 Coupe.
95' F250 5.8 on 6" of Rancho lift and 35" MT Baja's.
06' Explorer - wifes truck.
|
Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
|
posted 12-02-2006 07:44 PM
Da paint don't be stickin' too good when it bees cold out side.
 Don't ask me how I know.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
|
mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 12-03-2006 09:46 AM
Worked in a body shop in Ill. way back when enamel and lacquer were main stay. Do you mind if we talk about RUNS.....................Lacquer wasn't as bad but we still used a bank of heat lamps to warm surface for spot repairs. Bondo got warmed up with an old time hot plate in a large pan of water. Complete paint jobs were a nightmare!! Enamel wouldn't fare any better than say 2 stage. Re rattle cans, if the can feels cold, like to warm it in warm water for 5 or 10 min.
|
kenseth17
Journeyman Posts: 71
From: Green Bay, WI
Registered: Aug 2005
|
posted 12-04-2006 09:58 PM
I haven't been around quite that long. Base clear was fairly new, and centari enamel was still used very regularily, but activator added. Only painted one car with lacquer, cause it was still around and the tech school wanted you to have exposure to the different types. First job out of school was a Ford dealer. I was told they were only using centari and chromabase from now on and I was to dump all the lacquer tints in the waste barrel. I took mostly the silver ones and threw them together in a gallon can. Never did use it and still think I have it sitting in the basement more then 15 years later. I can just imagine sanding runs out of a freshly painted non activated enamel. Sounds like fun. I've heard of many speak of using hot plates to warm. I even had to use lead instead of filler once at one of my early bodyshop jobs, cause thats what the customer wanted. Don't remember how I did it, but remember that I did.
|
