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Author
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Topic: PolyLocks Loose on Solid Roller
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 11-10-2003 02:49 AM
   
Hi - Problem is polylocks backing off on solid roller 347 - comp cams - aluminum rockers 1.6 - Less then 50 miles on first one, thought I might have missed it, but know I didn't, then about 50 miles later another one on the other side backs off - I set these and was very careful but am not that familiar with the polylocks (Comp Cams) - The first time I set them I used my old habits and would set the set screw then back the "hex" nut (5/8th) to "jam" the lock - Twisted about 2.5 threads off the top of the .3 longer ARP studs that way (must have been a defective stud??) - Fearing this procedure wasn't proper with the polylocks I went back through all the settings by "setting" the lock screw only while holding the "hex nut".
My questions are anyone else have trouble with the polylocks backing off?
#2 - A Comp Cams rep at the NHRA finals told me you had to use the JAM technique to lock them - is that what most of you are doing? If so, anyone have rocker studs twist off at the end from doing it this way? Thanks Bill------------------
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-10-2003 03:22 AM
I used to check them and find them off here and there a little bit. Now I check them and they are right on the money, the difference is a stud girdle. If you have room get one.
JS------------------
JS
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
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F-150Moneypit
Journeyman Posts: 34
From: Oregon
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 11-10-2003 05:37 AM
Not exactly sure how your doing it, but here is how I do it without a problem.Loosen the set screw until it is at least flush with the top. Screw the poly lock down with your fingers until close to the desired lash. When you have found the lash you want put the box end wrench on and double check the lash, adjust if needed.. While holding the box end wrench (making sure it does not move) tighten the set screw with your allen wrench. It shouldn't budge. ------------------
'90 F150 Super Cab XLT Lariat
5.0/AOD/3.55 275/60/15 BFG's
Latest Mod - 204/214 cam
Next: Carbed 418W in the near future.
[This message has been edited by F-150Moneypit (edited 11-10-2003).]
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 11-10-2003 09:52 AM
That's the way I do mine too. I place the feeler guage under the roller and turn the nut down until I feel a slight friction on the gauge. Then I hold the wrench in this position and grab a Allen pack to torque the set screw down. The square case on the allen pack helps me give the little allen wrench just enough torque. They stay so tight that it hurts my wrist when I have to pop one loose. The top of the setscrews are sitting just below with the top of the locknut when they're all set.------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 1189
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 11-10-2003 12:29 PM
The only time my polylocks were off is when I chewed a roller. Have you checked for that?
It happens.------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 351C 4V
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 11-10-2003 09:56 PM
Thanks - That's exactly how I set these and I've had 2 come loose!! The Comp Cams representative told me you have to Jam the Polylock against the set screw or they won't hold. So far, by what I've expierienced I'd have to agree with him - I saw an older post from DaveC and he suggested checking the bottom of the set screw for flatness - haven't done that yet but I will - Any other advice is appreciated - Thanks -
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 11-10-2003 10:01 PM
Forgot to add this - I've seen Alex and others say they set their's warm but the ford book I think says cold at .018 - "65 289 block". Comp Cams spec sheet for #31-760-8 says .020 but no reference I can find to hot or cold. Anyone know which way Comp Cams means, hot or cold? I'm assuming it's cold because of the .020 figure! Thanks
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 26813
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-10-2003 10:09 PM
Hot, always HOT!  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Mike_R
Gearhead Posts: 178
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 11-11-2003 12:19 PM
Is the set screw actually backing off or is your lash opening up and the set screw still seems to be tight.If the lash is opening up but the set screw is still tight, then it's time to check out the lifters. This may not apply in your case, but it is good info to be aware of. If you start seeing lash opening up with no logical explanation that's a warning sign that your roller lifters are getting worn. They will have increasing play in the roller and eventually the roller may pop right out of one. But the good part is when the lash changes like that it's a good warning sign that you can use before things come apart. When my roller lifters went south the lash on some valves went from .020" to about .030" withing 50 miles of street driving and about 4 runs down the track. Your lash with a roller shouldn't vary much at all if any.
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 11-12-2003 02:07 AM
The lash didn't just loosen, the polylock was loose - caught it the first time at low rpm. under 2k starting to click clack very loudly, poly was very loose - Second time the rocker was thrown off the stud and the polylock was still laying there between two valve springs - These were both set by me and double checked using the set screw to lock them Thew set screw were still in the polylocks?????? Bill
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 11-12-2003 11:09 AM
You may have some studs that are ground parallel on the lock ends. The will prevent the poly-lock set screw from seating proper.Also...check you lash after you tighten the set screw as sometimes this will increase the lash a few thousandths....
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1443
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-12-2003 11:48 AM
Got this from a Harland Sharp tech when I was replacing a busted rocker arm stud.Turn the nut until you find the desired lash; then with your box wrench, back it off a an eigth to a quarter turn; then tighten the set screw and as you feel the tension on the set screw, at the same time tighten both the polylock nut and the set screw. Your polylock nut should end up where your desired lash was before backing it out a quarter turn. Re-check with feeler. The problem you get when you just tighten up the set screw by itself is if you take a wrench to the polylock and try backing it out, it EASILY backs out with very little effort. TRY IT!! He told me to try it and I did. It backed out effortlessly and I was sold on what the Harland Sharp tech told me to do. You NEED to JAM both those suckers into the stud!! Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6405
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-12-2003 05:39 PM
You know, now that I think about it, I honestly can't tell you how I set mine.  All I know is, the set screw ends up so tight it's a SOB to get loose. I haven't had any problems with them backing off in a long time. But for the record, I have alse been running a stud girdle for a long time.
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 52
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 11-12-2003 10:10 PM
Thanks - Talked to Comp Cams rep today and at first he said you'd only need to do the set screw, he put me on hold to check with the other tech reps - when he got back on line he said they were all divided over the issue, just set screw or jam the hex nut and screw - I personally have always jamed the hex nut into the set screw so I'm going back to that - if that fails I may but a girdle! Thanks for all the advice - Bill
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-12-2003 10:15 PM
buy the girdle and put this issue behind you. One dropped valve and the stud girdle pays for itself. Besides have you ever seen how studs flex at high RPM? I saw a video once of it and you wouldn't beleive the flex of the valve train with just a mild cam. I use to break a few studs every year, now I break none. trust me on this buy the girdle. 
JS------------------
JS
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 1443
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 04-12-2004 11:13 AM
I had to bring this back up...Jerry, how does the stud girdle aid in a dropped valve? Also, I think I'm having a slight problem with the harland sharp rockers i've got hitting the polylock nut. How does a stud girdle reposition the polylock? Thanks in advance. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Father & Son built w/M&M Help :cool:
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coupe3w
Journeyman Posts: 83
From:
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-13-2004 07:14 AM
I bought a Jo-Mar stud girdle on e-bay for my Cleveland and it didn't come with instructions. Does any one have the instruction sheet or know where I can get one? I can't find Jo-Mar on the net any where.Thanks
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