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  Dana 60 rearend: How to remove drums?

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Author Topic:   Dana 60 rearend: How to remove drums?
Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-13-2006 01:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
Fellas,

I've got an 8-lug, Dana 60 rearend which I believe came out of an early '70s F250 or F350; yep, it has the extended floating axle hubs. I'm trying to remove the brake drums and not having much luck.

Do I need to remove the two large countersunk screws that are located between the lugs?

...I'm thinking that the two screws secure the drum to,,, some inner flange????

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
Ryan

Rory McNeil
Gearhead

Posts: 1889
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 08-13-2006 01:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil        Reply w/Quote
If it is like my 74, you have to remove the "full floating" axles, which is quite simple, just remove the 8 bolts at the end of each axle. Once you slide the axles out, there will be 2 large nuts, with a lock plate in between the nuts. Find where the lock tab is bent over a flat on the outer nut, using a screwdriver or chisel bent the tab up. Now, the proper way to undo the nuts is with the correct socket, which is quite large, but many people use a hammer and punch to undo the nut. Once the outer nut is off, remove the lock tab, and then the inner nut. Now the drum should slide off, unless there is a ridge inside, which may require backing off the brake adjuster. When removing the drum, be careful. It is pretty heavy, and gear oil & the outer bearing may fall out. The bearings ressemble a larger version of a typical front wheel bearing setup, with inner & outer bearings, and a dust seal. They are normally lubed by the diffs gear oil, but they need some grease to protect them until the gear oil makes its way down the axle to the bearings. One tip when putting the drums back on, I wrap plain old electricion tape on the threads at the ends of the housing. This protects the hub seal from scraping on the threads.
Later on (mid 80`s, I think) Ford went to a "slip on " drum, but I`m pretty sure all the60`s & 70`s F 250-350`s had the non slip on style. Hope this helps. Note, I have the correct hub nut socket, which are commonly available from your auto parts store. I personally don`t like the chisel and hammer method to remove or install the hub nuts.

------------------
78 Fairmont 428 4 speed 10.20@131.5mph 1.32 60 foot
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA M/Stock 302 5speed. 12.36@106.88mph 1.63 60 foot
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd

[This message has been edited by Rory McNeil (edited 08-13-2006).]

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-13-2006 02:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
Thanks, Rory!

Now I can go to sleep easier knowing that I have a plan of attack on those hubs!

Hmmmm,,, maybe I can get real lucky and rent the big sockets that you mention from my friendly autoparts store.

Thanks again!
Ryan

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-17-2006 11:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
Well, Rory, I got the big (2 3/8") nuts off,,,and the outer bearings out....

But apparently, since the emergency cable opening in the backing plate wasn't plugged, it allowed mice to carry nuts & crap into the drums for YEARS of free housing, which along with the rust & mud is preventing them from coming off! Now I've beat on the hubs, distroying two pieces of oak in the process, without getting them to move off!!!

I'm kinda "stuck" now,,,,if you pardon my pun!

Any ideas?????????????

Ryan

Rory McNeil
Gearhead

Posts: 1889
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 08-17-2006 11:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil        Reply w/Quote
Do the drums spin freely? There may be a rust ridge on the backside of the drums that is catching the brake shoes, preventing them from sliding off. Or the shoes may have worn down to the rivets, grooving the drums.If so, you will need to back off the adjusters, which will allow the shoes to retract, giving you the required room to remove the drums. The adjusters have a starwheel located at the bottom. Going thru the backing plate, you will need a flat blade screwdriver, or better yet, a proper brake adjusting tool, and use it to turn the starwheel. If the self adjusting hardware is still intact, you may also need a second, smaller screwdriver to push back the self adjusters lever. If you can turn the starwheel one way, but not the other, the self adjuster is working. After turning the starwheel, check the drum for drag. If it is getting harder to turn, or won`t turn at all, you will have to turn the starwheel in the opposite direction. If the starwheels won`t turn in either direction, you have a problem, which could get ugly. Try backing off the adjusters first and see what happens.

------------------
78 Fairmont 428 4 speed 10.20@131.5mph 1.32 60 foot
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA M/Stock 302 5speed. 12.36@106.88mph 1.63 60 foot
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-17-2006 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
Yeah, I'm familiar with backing off the star adjuster procedure, as I've done it before on other vehicles.....

So,,,, I guess it's going to get ugly then, Rory!!

The drums don't spin AT ALL and the star adjuster doesn't even think about turning!

What do the two large screws between the lug studs hold together?

If I drill them out, will that get me anywhere?

???????????????????????

Ryan :\

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-22-2006 10:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
Well, just for the record:

Drilling out the two large screws didn't help at all.

I held my shop vacuum at the emergency cable opening and poked & picked with a stiff piece of wire through the 1/4" gap between the backing plate and drum to get most of the leaves and nuts outta the drum cavity. Once that was done, I had to beat on each drum with a 2# hammer (and a piece of hardwood as a cushion) until the lip of the shoes were exposed. Even once the drums were off, I had to chiesel the remaining shoe lining away from the drums. Using some fuel oil in a spray bottle, they finally cleaned up.....

What do the two large screws between the lug studs hold together? --- As was suspected, they simply held the hub to the drum. Their removal didn't help getting the drums off since the shoes were rusted to the drums and their springs were still holding the shoes. By chieseling off the head of the retaining "nails" helped the most by allowing the drums to move enough for me to reach inside with a longer chiesel and hack away at the shoe frames..... Geezzzz....

Ryan

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